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I recently ordered a Dayton 1F612 drill chuck while going down a rabbit hole on pin vises. It arrived defective, with improperly ground jaws that grabbed at the back and then canted over as it was tightened down. I didn't worry too much about it as I had already found a better option, but I...

This post screams "LLM generated". It's also wrong.

Yes.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804755405283.html Go to "Item Description" click view all and scroll down.

It is a complete waste of time and materials, dude.

1) Steel strips are by far the easiest to spot weld. More resistance=more heat for a given electrical input=easier welding. 2) Length absolutely matters when you're talking high currents. Hundreds of builds, without basic knowledge of current flow or geometry. Must be rough. Look at the...

I'm not going to go into the engineering details of each board. You can either take my word that they're inferior/dangerous or not. The kit I recommended is rated for 60A continuous, with 100A pulses for up to 1 second and 180A for up to 100ms.

They reduce the resistance of the connections between the battery cells and between the cells and the management board.

Folding the nickel down into those recesses wasn't practical or necessary, given the cross section of the material already connected to the batteries.

1) Your chart lists continuous ratings. You can go ahead and match it to the continuous rating of your battery. 2) You don't need to stack the strips. You can do one series connection between each parallel set of cells and match exceed the continuous rating of your BMS. 3) The strips...

Because that's what a responsible engineer would use. But since I don't like having egg on my face, I looked and the wiring in my mower and it's actually 125C insulation.

I thought SBD abandoned the DeWalt mechanic's tools when they rolled out Craftsman. They had the best deep-offset wrenches for the money at one point.

Those batteries don't last 9 years even under perfect conditions. They're toast. Even with new SLA batteries it's going to be a terrible mower. The best case scenario would be a lithium retrofit, but I seriously doubt it would be worth the effort. Also, never try to charge a battery that looks...

Gotta give him credit for saying that with a straight face.

I still remember the first time I drove a screw with an impact driver almost 20 years ago. It seemed like magic.

1) It's DeWalt's low-mid range impact driver and you're working the hell out of it. 2) Impacts aren't drills. Yes, they can spin a drill bit, but that doesn't mean they should. You said you bought the combo kit, why are you trying to use the impact for that in the first place?

Not everyone has their manhood wrapped up in their wrenches. Number of repairs I've been unable to perform due to my tools not having a Snap-On label: 0 Number of my repairs that have failed or otherwise been unsatisfactory due to my tools not having a Snap-On label: 0

Shortly after people stopped talking about them here.

Of course it's badass. It's a Makita. I talk myself out of buying that thing every couple months or so.