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The pre-built one? They go in and out of stock, so they don't always show up in search: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CKHLN394?tag=atomicindus08-20 The kits came from Aliexpress. I haven't seen them anywhere else: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806803364276.html The Molicel P45B...

This is long-winded. For the payoff, scroll down to the red arrow. I like my Makita tools. They're dead reliable, have excellent ergonomics and build quality and are consistently the best of the big brands when it comes to NVH. Unfortunately, I also like watching Torque Test Channel...

1) There are practical issues that will cause significant problems later if they aren't addressed now. 2) The highest torque rating I found for an M3 BHCS was 1.35nm. The only figure I found for steel M3 screws into aluminum was 1.0nm, and that was with helicoils. That puts your "12-15 inlbs"...

Would a nylon screw work? They won't strip the threads in the aluminum. You could leave some extras so they can swap to a new one when they get worn. They also tend to resist backing out once tightened.

Those threads aren't going to hold up regardless of the tool used. Is it possible to move to larger screws (M4 or M5) with threaded metal inserts? Are these screw heads in the air path? If not, could they be replaced with thumbscrews? That would make it harder to over-tighten and add some...

I couldn't find a decent pin vise, so I bought a Dremel 4486 chuck to make my own. Then I found out that the spindle thread is proprietary, so I had to get creative. I threaded the base with a 3/8-24 die and then designed and printed a handle that lets me actuate the chuck jaws with an M6...

Looks like they go for $30-40 with shipping, so not really.

Assuming the electronics are intact, it looks like these guys can rebuild your packs with modern cells: https://www.mtobattery.com/collections/fein-battery-rebuilding-services/products/92604179020-fein-lithium-battery-rebuild-service

My Sawzall is a Makita. :D

If you can't read the thread, don't post in the thread. Simple. So given the choice between spending $23 for a poorly made HF caliper covered in burrs and full of grinding dust or spending $27 for a quality tool, you think option A is the way to go? You do you.

I don't, sorry. I actually found the Shahes after I got fed up with my Pittsburgh calipers and couldn't find the iGaging AO anywhere on Amazon.

I bought 4 different models from 3 different sellers. Two were dead on and two were over by 0.01mm at 100mm. The accuracy difference is due to something in the electronics on the older designs. The absolute origin electronics measured accurately regardless of which slide I swapped them onto...

I'm fully aware that 0.05mm is far from "******* match" territory. I'm not a machinist; I make most of my stuff on a high-end 3D printer. It is, however, far below the tolerance that could be met with a measurement accuracy of +/-0.127mm.

I'm going to have to disagree with this. That kind of error range would make them useless for the kind of stuff I make. I regularly design and produce multi-part assemblies with a top-to-bottom tolerance of 0.05mm.

I don't think they have any fractional versions. The absolute origin model uses a CR1632 battery and draws 17uA when on and 16uA when off, so it should last about a year. The other model I have (the gray/black one in the first post) uses a CR2032 battery and draws 18uA when on and 17uA when...

I wouldn't expect someone that already has Mitutoyos to switch to these. I'm recommending them for people who want the best option in the $20-30 range. Hence the thread title. I know! That's what made me curious. Here's the video. It includes calipers from several manufacturers, including...

I picked up a few Shahe digital calipers the other day out of curiosity after I saw Mr. Pete mentioned they operated very smoothly in one of his videos. They make several types, but in my opinion their absolute origin model is the way to go. You can usually pick them up for under $30 shipped to...

The Pittsburgh pass-through socket set is the solution to this problem. Readily available, good quality, good warranty and dirt cheap.

Good meters are designed a product to take massive power surges without injuring the user. Installing a potentially explosive lithium cell and a charging circuit that provides a conductive path to the outside of the device is...problematic.

Damn right I do!