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I gave it to my neighbor. He needs a meter maybe twice a year, so the battery drain won't be a problem for him. With the Energizer lithiums in it he's set for the next decade at least. I'm making do with my Fluke 87V & 117, Brymen BM869S & BM235, Extech MA435T and Uni-T UT210E. I do have my...

I had one of these. That always-on backlight eats batteries. If you try to use rechargeables it immediately shows low battery and quickly refuses to work. I don't like using alkaline batteries in my meters because they always seem to leak. That leaves Energizer lithiums, which are quite pricey...

I'm usually in the "just use the tool" camp, but in this case the OP had a set of needle nose pliers with a 25-50% jaw offset. That is a non-starter as far as I'm concerned. Even more so on something that expensive.

It was full of abrasive, conductive dust, because:

Makita 18v Covers everything from drills and saws to lawn mowers and weedeaters.

Makita's SJS grinders are world-class and made in Buford, GA. Inox grinders are optimized for finishing work on stainless steel. They aren't intended for general purpose use.

There wasn't any way I was going to get a Voron assembled in my house with 2 kids and 5 animals running around, even if I had the time. I bought a Vivedino Troodon 2.0, which is essentially a Voron 2.4 clone. After getting the kinks worked out this thing is ultra-reliable, and the print...

If your only problem with the Ullman picks is corrosion you could cold blue them. This is the stuff I use: https://www.amazon.com/Brownell-Oxpho-Blue-Professional-Grade-Cold/dp/B00SOUKFLW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I've never been a fan of ratcheting screwdrivers. I picked up a Vessel electric screwdriver recently and have been using the hell out of it.

There are different types of e-torx. These are designed to work with fasteners that have the torx cap on a rounded base, hence the pronounced taper at the socket opening. Other e-torx fasteners have the torx cap on a flatter base and won't fully engage with these. For those, Matco sells...

Another vote for wire wheel deburring.

What did you end up using for the welds?

I haven't seen a Trusty Cook fall apart like that.

The downward force doesn't have any benefit when you're using a socket since it doesn't have a tendency to cam out like a screwdriver.

Maybe grab the dimensions from the other piece on that welder and get quotes from some machinists? Or just get a chunk of cast iron and make it yourself. It looks like most of the geometry could be done with a bandsaw. As for the leads, if you aren't hung up on the color and are comfortable...

"Last seen August 13th, 2013" I don't think he's coming back.

Time to find out if the manufacturer offers repair services.

In something as dead simple as a miter saw? It's a power cord, snap action switch and a brushed universal motor. Also, you clearly didn't pay attention to the symptoms. It wasn't running slow. It wasn't running intermittently. It was dead. Where in your *25 years of experience* did you learn...

25 years and you never learned what 15+ amps does to a broken wire?

A rating in joules is a good indicator that a welder measures energy input (kWeld) rather than being timer-based (Malectrics).