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We are not in the city and there are no permit or inspection requirements.

I am going to be breaking ground next week on a 50 x 50 steel building. I want to have a toilet and sink in it. I know absolutely nothing about plumbing other then **** flows down hill lol . What do I need to do before I pour the slab to facilitate the toilet and sink? Likely due to my budget...

I am closing on a house with 7 acres in a couple weeks. It has a double garage for parking the cars a 30 x 40 dirt floor steel building, and a 40 x 50 concrete floor steel building. I have my own business and need to store 5 pickups, 7 trailers, 4 atvs / utvs, and other misc small equipment...

I have a shop in my backyard that is a steel building and it is 24' wide and 30' deep. I need more space and the only place I can build is right next to it. Kind of hard to explain but it could be 54' wide and 60' deep, in an L shape. Basically I want to bulid another steel building that is...

I think you guys are all wrong. I bet NASA picks their tools up at the Harbor Freight 40% off sale.

Take the money you saved and buy copper. It is the best. Black Iron is much cheaper and will work but it rusts and puts trash in your lines. PVC, while I have seen it used, is dangerous. If it breaks it explodes and sends pieces everywhere.

In a short form 2 -stage gives you 175 psi. Most single stage top at around 125 psi. Even though you may not use that much psi, higher pressure means more air stored in your tank. You will have a lot more air in a 60 gal tank at 175 psi than a 60 gal at 125 psi.

Saw this one at Sams for $829. It is an Ex - Cell (made by devilbiss) 80 gal, 2 stage, 6hp. http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=353151 What are your thoughts for the price? Not the biggest and baddest, but seems to be a lot for the price. Before I pull the trigger...

Actually I think it is a deed restriction not so much an electrical code. We do not have an HOA but there are a buttload of rules in my neighboorhood. The airlines on the fence probably would hack them off but I doubt they could stop me. Besides I was going to run them inside the fence about...

Even if it is my own lines? By that I mean after the meter. The meter is in the alley. It goes underground from there to my house. I do have a 120V compressor now and it does not really keep up. It is an oiless craftsman and is loud. I may look at running the 220, but as I said above no need...

Practically yes, but I don't think so. My area codes, etc state all electrical must be underground. They have no rules for air lines.

Not trying to argue but how? Wire would have to be underground, I would need to locate all the other lines, dig a trench, etc. With pipe it would just be four 20' sticks on a straight run and then some connections on each end to complete it. My house is nothing special. It is 3000 sq feet but...

Thanks for the replies. The problem I have with underground is everything here is underground. In the general area between my house and shop I have a sprinkler system, buried phone line, buried cable line, buried gas line, and buried main electrical feed to house. I have no idea where any of...

my breaker box for my house is in my garage. it is a 400 amp unit. my garage is just for parking cars kids bikes wifes junk and i have a seperate detached shop for all my tools, working on things, etc. i will be buying a 240 v air compressor but my shop only has 120 volt service and is about...

Any have an idea what it does?

Just picked up a 3100 snap on impact off ebay. The power settings and the reverse on the back are like normal, but what does the hole with the open and shut lever by the trigger do? I have owned a half dozen impacts and never seen one of these before.

My old compressor pump did not have head unloaders. I am replacing it and the new one has them. I am not exactly sure how they work and what they do. Can someone please explain for me? On my current setup I have a unloader on my pressure switch. It has a 1/4" line that connects in between the...

I don't think I have ever seen a tool rated for more than 90 psi. I know a lot of people run them at higher pressures without problems but I have never seen anyone use 175. That would be nearly double the spec which does not seem like a good idea. So do people get 175 psi just to store more...

Ok lets change it then. two categories. If you compressor goes to 125 pump up from 0 to 125 If your compressor goes to 175 pump up from 0 to 175 Just looking to get some real world numbers here.

It seems that there is a lot of variables in how CFM is stated on compressors. Different companies tend to overrate their numbers, etc. I am sure there is some sort of equipment out there that can test this but to me it seems that a quick and easy test for the end user to do is the pump up test...