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10 or so years ago I tried to list all my tools for insurance, including a stab at replacement value for each item. I was over $20k when I stopped. That was mostly woodworking and mechanics tools. Since then I've added a mill and metal lathe and all the associated tooling. People who say...

Instead of new drill bits, maybe you need a better quality chuck.

I've had one for about 8 or 9 years. It runs very quiet and smooth and the wheels run true. Like any grinder, the wheels that come with it are rock hard and you'll want to replace them with something softer for faster cutting and less overheating. Although it looks like the wheel on the right...

Unlike most appliances these days it's 120V only so no using it in Europe.

The ones I have are 120V only, hard wired.

I wouldn't recommend that. Drill press chucks aren't meant to take side loads and there's a very good chance it'll come out. There's a reason milling machines use a drawbar. If you're lucky it'll just break the cutter. If you're unlucky the chuck and/or pieces of the cutter will go flying...

I assume you have a bench grinder. Get a soft aluminum oxide wheel for it since the wheels that come with most grinders are too hard so they cut too slow and load up. Woodworking stores are a good place to find the right wheel. Learn to grind HSS tools. Don't bother with carbide - it's meant...

If you really can't get the knack of using stones (it isn't that hard), then the Lansky type works great. All it's doing for you is holding the blade at a consistent angle. If you want to sharpen your pocket knife and make your wife giddy with sharp kitchen knives at the same time then get one...

Center drills are used to start a hole because they're short, not flexible, tend not to wander, and leave a slight countersink for a drill bit to follow. They're meant to be used in a drill press or milling machine, but I've had success using them in a hand held drill also. Any place that...

Bridgeports are a dime a dozen here in the midwest. You can get a nicer one with 2-axis DRO for that price and they often come with some tooling.

It's counterintuitive, but when hand routing heavier is better. A bit catching or a motor spinning up is less likely to move a heavy router. I have a Bosch 1617 mounted in a table and a 3 hp Dewalt plunge router I use by hand. Even the little 1617 will swing the large cope & stick bits for...

Well, that makes a lot more sense for why one of these things is worth crying over.

I'm curious if anyone really uses those things? I've received a half dozen or so as gifts over the years and just tossed them in an out of the way drawer or the trash. None of the ones I've been given have been remotely ergonomic - the handles are too large. Of course, the ones given to me...

That looks like a nice solid lift. I wonder why they didn't add a removable panel so the rear tire could be easily removed? Not necessary on something like a dirt bike with high fender clearance, but on most street bikes you'd need to jack up the rear end a fair ways to slide the tire out.

I'm no fan of HF and generally avoid them - they cheapen and screw up the simplest of things. Having said that, I have one of those lifts and I wish I'd have bought it years ago. I replaced the wheel chock. I also sprayed a strip of bed liner down the center so it wouldn't be slippery. In...

Looks like Lowes and others are blowing out the NiCd battery powered drills/drivers. Be careful if you're really wanting Li-ion.

I'm sure this has been covered but doing a search on "cordless drill" brings up about 90% of the posts in this sub-forum... My current cordless drill is a Panasonic I've had for a few years. If I leave a battery on the charger between uses (usually a week or so) I can count on it being almost...