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Last... 'cause it's really late and I should have been in bed by now... lol... When you buy our products through AlphaGarage you can have peace of mind that you are dealing with reputable companies. Fred is SSPC certified and many here have raved about his level of service. We not only make...

There is a big difference between Wolverine Coatings and the other two companies you mention. We are real formulators and an actual manufacturer of polymer compounds. We aren't just a marketing company who buys products from another company labeled as our own. We have 2 Chemists and 1 Chemical...

So, is a 25 mil coating better than a 10 mil coating? Of course it is... One of the main reasons that floor coatings fail is because they get damaged where the damage reaches to the concrete. In other words, if a coating gets a deep scratch that travels to the concrete it creates a failure path...

Ahh... the age old question... Is thicker really better? The answer is... It depends on the coating! Thicker is better when the coating is designed to be applied thick. The reason that you don't put the automotive urethane on thick is because it will trap solvent in the coating which will...

Both the EnduraShield 2254 and the LiquaTile 1184 are resistant to MgCl. In addition, if you want to do a graphic you would put it under the EnduraShield 2254. For more information see Fred at AlphaGarage.com

Let me clarify my previous post. I'm not guessing when I wrote my previous statements. We are a manufacturer of epoxy resins and coatings. We know a little bit about it (heavy sarcasm). Unless you are atomizing the epoxy the 'fumes' have nothing to do with it. Rinny_Tin_Tin is correct... dust...

I like Duct Tape... I would pull tape and re-tape inbetween coats. It really depends on how thick the coating is. Thinner coatings don't really need the tape pulled as often...

We do make products that are used in welding areas of shops. In fact, if you have a Buttler building then maybe it was made on one of those floors. Fred has been chompin' at the bit to sell these products but I am concerned about the DIY installation.

You would want to use Boiled Linseed Oil and NOT raw. The difference is that the Boiled Linseed Oil contains driers that force it to dry. While it will form a film it will be pretty weak. If you aren't that concerned about performance you could just buy some cheap acrylic which would outperform...

Ok... I'm going to show you something cool... So, from your post about the SW materials it looks like you are getting about 6 gallons of TileClad Epoxy and 2 Gallons of Rexthane Moisture Cured Urethane. Have you considered how thick your garage floor will be when it is finished? I mean, at...

This was probably an Acrylic Epoxy like the 'Get Rich Quick Scheme' guy was pushing... A very small amount of epoxy is added to cheap acrylic to increase it's adhesion and durability. These types of products are stronger than standard acrylic but much weaker than nanopolymer acrylics (like our...

That would ****!

Thundercow is right... you need to remove the paint before acid etching. There are also chemical methods (like our OrganiStrip products) that you can try but if you can get a good price on a grinder rental it's the best way to go. The OrganiStrip products are more expensive than conventional...

Hi, Epoxy Resin and many curing agents (hardeners) are SKIN sensitizers. That means that people who are sensitive to them can develop an allergic reaction when they repeatedly get epoxy resin on their skins. Also, some people may have an allergic reaction on the first use... it's rare. So...

I can't pick without knowing what each one is actually going to do. Do you have a material breakdown for each one? In other words, how many mils of each step will be applied. Is either of the contractors giving you a breakdown of the amounts of materials they are going to use. Contractors...

Hi Disranger, I wasn't aware that you had been quoted since I never have anything to do with that... Go Fred! Anyway, what were you quoted from SW? How many gallons for how much money?

Ok... I'll bite... lol... I've been ignoring this thread intentionally. I'm not going to comment on the company... only the technology. This technology is only 50% solids and is a low quality solventbased polyamide. What I mean by that is that a polyamide is as cheap (and the lowest quality)...

100% solids means that there is no solvent to evaporate. There is Zero VOC (Volatile Organic Content). In addition, it means that there is nothing to evaporate... not even water. I make that distinction because many here would not consider water to be a solvent. So, if a coating has anything...

Hi Marco... I get the feeling that you've really already made up your mind and are hoping that someone will confirm it. I'm going to give you some things to think about and encourage you to ensure you know what you are getting for the money. Here is my take... This is system dependent which...

If you are going for a cheap price per gallon then it's hard to get cheaper than a solvent based polyamide epoxy. However, if you want quality and you only want to do it once then I suggest doing some more research. For starters I would ditch a polyamide for a higher quality cycloaliphatic...