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I did asphalt millings (recycled asphalt) and paid $300 for 23 tons delivered, it was pretty clean and packed down nicely. Best thing is that when I can afford full paving it will work nicely as a base. They quoted $5200 to pave the same area. Check your local quarry or Craigslist. My second...

I bought the hand crank reel and goodyear hose from Harbor Frieght...works great

Finally put down my Legacy Industrial Standard Primer, going to use this as the finished floors for now (and probably a long while). 55% solids and this stuff laid down very nicely, i added anti-skid and couldn't be happier with the results. These pics are after the second coat and 12 hours...

Ordered by epoxy primer Legacy Industrial today (light gray)... probably going to stick with that for now based on funds. I'd like to add some flakes and topcoat but the $500 can be spent other places right now.

for now... Beretta has been thinking about moving ops I hear, due to increasing pressure from MD.

that's funny... happy wife, happy life

nice... That first pic with your wife looking at it should have a thought bubble with "really, did it HAVE to be that big?" mine was saying that but I only have an acre so my 28x36 was as large as I went.

This is a 7/12 pitch, I think an 8/12 with attic trusses would have gotten you a nice area. Since I was looking for ceiling height for a future lift I didn't worry so much about the attic. I have storage trusses over the garage door area for some attic storage.

barn is coming along, I need to wait until payday to purchase a flooring solution... 1. Epoxy (100% solids, no flakes) 2. Waterbased Epoxy (flakes and acruylic clearcoat) 3. Basic Sealer, let it be a normal messy floor I need to stay under $400 if possible, the first choice is the toughest...

probably need to get professional advice if you can't ID if it's load bearing. It really depends on the truss configuration and how it was built. Major cracks might mean a new floor but it really depends on the amount of settling.

Looks great... I just did this and ended up with blotchy spots and streaks from the roller. Not sure why though.

Legacy stated that the burnishing can only be done with the HD40, looks nice

I poured a new patio, contractor broke up the old slab and left the foundation, we used that foundation line as a control joint for the new slab...

no phone calls while in the garage, perfect!

any final pics of that floor? I have the HD39 densifier and never thought of that technique, looks good. What type of pad did you use on the buffer? I use to be a pro at running those in my younger Army days!

I have the double bubble insulation on the ceiling, not as good as spray foam but better than nothing. The metal for the ceiling is $600+ J channel, then I'd like to add blow in insulation on top of that. Baby steps at this point...

I guess it depends on what you plan to do with it. If you want it to last 100years then a foundation might be better. I couldn't have built a 1,000sq ft stick built garage for $15,000... Cost was my overall factor. Thanks, this fit my budget and due to a deployment last year I saved up a...

It matches my house pretty well, the garage doors are nicer though! The overhang and roof pitch make it look more like a garage than anything. I went 7/12 for the tray truss but was planning on 6/12... A lot of basic pole barns are only 4/12. If you don't need more ceiling height then 8 or 9...

thanks... it will be nice to get the project out of the family garage and somewhere you can actually work/walk around it...

I am planning on someday adding insulation, walls (OSB or metal) and metal ceiling. Probably going to be a slow project since my funds are exhausted right now. Before that I plan to add electrical drops on every post and a ton of lighting. I see no issues with finishing off a pole barn like a...