Search results

I could guess, but it would be nowhere near accurate as the contents are likely worth more than the boxes, and I can't see the contents. Ratchets, sockets, and wrenches can be worth anywhere for 25 cents to a hundred bucks each. Depends on brand, age and quality within the brand.

Assuming (yeah, I know), it's a transformer welder, I'd suspect the huge magnetic field surrounding the thing is fooling the GFCI by inducing current in the feed and creating a current mismatch in the circuit in/out. But it could be a leak to ground in the tranformer windings alsol

Agree with most of the above. Wheel Horse is the hardest (IME) to find parts for. Case parts are available from a couple of dealers that I know of and have good user support on the net. I would narrow the field to either Case or a hydrostatic trans JD or Cub Cadet. Just don't care for...

That's odd, nothing over 3/8 at HD or Lowes here (OK). Edit: now that I think about it, brass and copper where almost universally used in heating system before the plastics arrived on the scene. And there are almost no water circulating heat systems in OK, so it would make sense they wouldn't...

Brass?

Yes I've seen that and I've also seen other stupid things done during repairs. But none of those where part of an install and the permit process wouldn't/couldn't/didn't prevent any of them.

In my state (OK) the locate services only locate the piping and wiring owned and installed by the utilities. Owner stuff is never traced and marked. So my gas line from the street to the meter next to the house would be marked as would the electric service from the street to meter. But, my...

either one of three things IMO. 1. new thermocouple isn't generating enough current to open the valve 2.the valve is bad 3.the connection where the thermocouple joins the valve is loose, dirty or something.

.840 is 1/2" pipe size not tubing size. You may be able to find brass pipe fittings to what you need. Depending on the wall thickness of your pipe it may be possible to thread the cut piece with a standard die. Not recommending it but galvanized iron pipe can be used for water, was back in...

Yeah, those are marginal for any added load. But, you can help a bit by adding a strong-back on top of the joists. Won't really add much load capacity, but will definitely help with the sagging you have now. Every stick built roof I've seen that was built in the 70s or older had them. Simple...

Good info so far. Many, many years ago I too had a plaster walled house. Probably built in the 30s, cracked and repaired more than once before I got it in the early 60s. Cleaned cracks out, repaired with setting compound, then covered the worst wall with cheesecloth bedded in setting...

How about an outside pic? That does not look like sweating, but moisture from outside weeping through porous concrete.

The rule I was taught about wire nuts is this: You don't have to pre-twist with wire nuts, BUT, when done the wire should be twisted inside the wire nut. And that that's a lot of torque with bigger wires. That's why most do pre-twist wires. I'll bet your installer didn't. Pre-twisted and...

That brand has been inconsistent IME. I no longer buy them if alternatives are available. They trended to bend with my Senco air guns, and not feed well. I couldn't see anything wrong but suspected the angle or collation was off.

Not going to get too deep into this subject, but the licensing and permit process is driven mostly by state law and national codes. Take a close look at the membership of the organizations developing those codes. Way to may manufacturers and service provider groups in the mix. Codes...

I'd try wrapping the entire 4 with fiberglass insulation with a 'neat as possible' aluminum tape cover. If that works consider a real metal covering.

Late to the party but I'd hang horizontal, cut to fit and hitting a stud is not necessary. Look up '**** hanger', and yes that's safe! Don't need to buy the product necessarily, same thing can be done with plywood and shim material of your choice, cardboard, really thin ply, thin rips off...

While your fixing the problem be sure to find out why grounding a 120v line didn't trip the breaker. should have if the units ground is connected to panel ground.

How are you measuring if you can't use the pad corners? Posts? how far up? are they plumb? On the 3=4=5 thing, oldest carpenters measurement ever. Link: https://westerninterlock.com/how-to-square-a-corner-3-4-5-method/ You can (should) multiply all the numbers to get the best accuracy...

reading the light listing, it is a 14000 lumen fixture, and rated at 140 lumens per watt so OP is correct it is a 100w input fixture so all the math showing it on a 120v circuit above is correct. Too bad they don't include a picture of the actual label with the current draw shown.