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It looks like the repaired 'truss' is also the location of the low spot. If so, I'd try this: remove the screws holding the metal in place except for a few at each end. Use a piece of lumber, 2x4 is probably enough to lift that piece that's splice in. Use a board slight longer than the...

First time I saw that product name online, I was almost afraid to Google it for info!! I've never bought the real thing, but have homemade some and they work great. Plus it can actually save material by not having so many cutoffs.

I would, if only to minimize fittings and connections. Fewer opportunities for a mistake/leak.

Yep, I had some experience with Zinsco and FPE . House with FPE was fine, one of the lucky ones I guess. Zinsco blew a hole in the side! Luckily just some smoke and singed box. No recalls but vastly different regulatory climate than today. I'm happy with Eatons in my shop and home...

I would use pex, and not go so deep. Pex will survive freeze/thaw with no problems so no need to purge at the end of the season. If you want conduit, I'd recommend electrical type with sweeps. With the right sizing one could pull the pex after burial, even add some communication cable for TV...

Can't offer any better info on the wall, but my experience with weed control with plastic sheet or fabric has not been really successful. I've found that almost all weeds come from seeds deposited on top! As evidenced by the root growth when pulled. I know it's not for everyone, but...

After seeing the aftermath of a bubble/foil sandwich ceiling insulation fire, no way would I have any of the foam products exposed. In that case a small cardboard fire in on corner of a big building spread in 2-3 minutes to cover the entire building. Cardboard boxes stored touching a metal...

You can add a door most anywhere with some planning and prep work. I've done a few. build a temp wall a few feet back of the door location. It's purpose is to hold the weight of the structure while the hole is cut and framed, including the required header. The rest is just normal...

This, unless you can provide a break at the change in base material. I don't think the stucco on steel will crack if it is isolated from the adjacent finish.

Clamps, the key to barbed fittings lifetime. Most of the geared clamps available locally are stainless band only the screw is not. So it will rust away when buried for years. Depending on soil type and moisture content it could be a few or many. Poly with barbs is fine IF one sources...

It's also good practice to surround the valve with coarse gravel to prevent dirt/clay etc from blocking the drain port as it is not under pressure, just gravity to empty the pipes above.

Long ago I was faced with installing a water line to extend the rural water district's line to my property. The district engineer dictated the material and design. I had to install and deed to the district when completed, inspected and approved. In the process I found that glued pipe was...

This, all of this. +extra rebar in the thickened edge.

If I had this issue at my place one of two ideas would be adopted. Zeke's raised bottom chord or just move the truss back. Either will work IMO, and safely. Probably move the truss as there would be no outward evidence of the change as the trusses are still 2ft and 1 ft apart as original...

I think you’re on the right track with tension. Recommend releasing all tension and redoing while carefully counting the turns. Last resort, new matchedsprings.

Well, not exactly. Pioneer offers a 12mo warranty even if it isn't 'registered', installed and signed off by a pro. I had a fan motor failure on mine about a week after install. I emailed them and had a new motor on hand in 3 days. Installed said motor myself.

I had that exact issue. Commercial building that I rented when I move out of state for a couple of years. Tenant removed the filters from 2 5T units! Took me several attempts to clean the coils of all the junk and restore airflow. And this was with a lease clause addressing tenant...

Or a Dremel type tool with appropriate disk. Smaller, fits in tight places better, but slower.

Just search for slides and adapter for 'face frame' cabinets. As opposed to Euro style. That should get you a lot of choices. I usually just build out the cabinet sides at the slide location to match the opening in the face frame. Takes longer but uses up scraps and works well.

That was a specific oil, 303. It's label clearly showed the specs and usage. No hydrostats or any modern tractor speced that oil. Guys/Gals bought because it was cheap and used it in spite of it not being correct for their equipment. Like someone said earlier RTFM, not you but all those...