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On my old Century the feed roller has two grooves, one for .023, one for 035 wire. Remove the center nut, turn the roller around to line up the correct one, adjust the tension and swap the contact tip to change from one to the other. Some use two separate rollers and must be changed. When...

I once had a 4x6 real slate board from a local school in my antique store. Talk about heavy. I won't bore you with the tale of how that turned into several smaller boards.

OK, after reading all this and adapting the info to my work processes, here's what I'd do. Remember, part of my process is I'm almost always working alone. So, I'd grab a 1x2, 3 or 4, just depends on what is handy. Use some good wood screws to attach it to the studs at the height of the...

Wait 'til the table is off before buying a motor. A lot of older industrial woodworking tools used proprietary motors, non-standard mounts.

Both of these guys are right on the money. I have owned an Italian-made MIG since the 80s. First was a Cebora which I sold in the late 90s as part of a move. The one I have now is a Century (Cebora in Europe), bought before Lincoln bought the brand. 140A/120V with a 20A plug on it...

It would help to see some outside pics too. And an exterior wall not covered with interior finish stuff.

What door type do you have? That brand seems to be the best, and highest priced, of that type.

IMO, this is just a spacer, no structural properties needed, except not to crush under fastener load. I'd grab some PVC boards at HD/Lowes of the correct thickness and cut some spacers. First thing though, I'd speak with the inspector to be sure his view matched mine.

Tile backing Cement Board or Jame Hardie type siding board? I think guys are talking about two different things. Tile board, OK IMO, fiber cement board not so much.

If it should 'take-off' on you, the board is being fed from the wrong direction. Always feed against the blade rotation when ripping. It may push it back toward you, but will not grab and pull. I've ripped literally thousands of feet of lumber on one. Weird project as I bought a LOT of...

Well after some more research I think this: https://www.automatictechnology.com/residential/rolling-door-operators/dominator-easyroller-14 Australian company is the originator of the type and the others are cheap imitations. The web site alludes to having dealers and shows a 5yr/10k cycle...

So it seems nobody has tried the ultra cheap ones. Probably a good reason for that. Some reviews indicate they work, but fail early. edit: This is the kind I was wondering about

Used search and didn't find any info. I'm thinking of installing a power opener on a standard 8x7 roll-up door. Like the millions of u'storage places use. Lots of cheap units on eBay and Amazon but not a lot of positive reviews. Anyone have some first hand experience and/or recommendations...

Me too! Just measure everything, including the commons, and precision isn't really a concern as there is no structural component here, just appearance..

You don't specify the length, just the width. But, it the length isn't overly long, you might consider a single engineered beam running down the middle with joist hanger on each side to accept the existing 2x6 joists. I've done this on a couple of remodels to convert two smaller rooms, LR and...

Same here, but with new clamps from the parts store. Also have been known to use them to extend my welder's reach.

http://www.sirtools.com/catalog.htm

All my wiring is conduit with THHN conductors. Not everyone buys into this, but the conduit is the safety ground, but all connections are compression vs set screw. I believe those to provide a better electrical connection. My 3phase service is 240 delta so I get 240 single and 120 as well...

Those small tanks do not use caps. No threads or way to attach.