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My 50 size guesstimate includes 2.5mm to 15mm by 0.5mm steps. It also includes the above sizes for the metric taps. It also includes the sizes required for M3 to M14 reamers and counterbores as well as clearance sizes for the fasteners. Variations on materials and coatings are not a factor...

Cool thank you! Dimitri

True but I never needed a 9/16" tap. After M12 or 1/2" I always seem to jump to M14 or 5/8" threads. Dimitri

Look into the Shaviv B30 internal/external deburring blade for thin gage boxes/panels etc. I've attached the section showing their internal deburring blades. Not paid to advertise, but they are the best, and all I use and recommend to people. :willy_nil Dimitri

It's because you don't need all of them. You need 22 drills to cover the range between NC/NF taps for SAE threads between a #5 and 5/8", to cover a standard commonly found Metric M3 to M14 threads. The sets comes with 86 letter and number sizes that you don't honestly need all of them. And...

Honestly I buy drills based on need other then the basic set that goes by 0.5mm. For common metric taps. M3x0.5 - 2.5 M4x0.7 - 3.3 M5x0.5 - 4.5 M5x0.8 - 4.2 M6x1.0 - 5.0 M7x1.0 - 6.0 M8x1.0 - 7.0 M8x1.25 - 6.8 M9x1.25 - 7.8 M10x1.0 - 9.0 M10x1.25 - 8.8 M10x1.5 - 8.5 M12x1.0 - 11.0 M12x1.25 -...

Steel and stainless, would like aluminum too but those are not small machines typically. Edit totally missed this one LOL... http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-ca/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=K5126-1 Up to 1/8 or so. I'd prefer a machine that can use both. Dimitri

So I am looking at getting a TIG welder possibly, any recommendations? Looking for something small like a Lincoln VT160-T or something. Not sure what is good out there, have not used we welder in years, and only in school for projects. Thanks! Dimitri

SK 1/4" drive "screw driver". Nothing prevents it from spinning mechanically. It's a round extension in a handle with a round hole. Removal and lots of Green Loctite is required. Dimitri

Thought about it but the law doesn't take too kindly to that. Dimitri

I think my van was targeted by an independent gypsie when it was broken into last year, due to the decals on the company van. They stole company specialized forklift tools, left my personal toolboxes alone (save for a couple of things like my 20V MacTools 3/8" impact that was on the shelf)...

I like this set ... http://www.protoindustrial.com/en/industrial-tools/Proto/Master-Sets/Railroad-Sets/JTS-0141RR_Proto%c2%ae-141-Piece-Railroad-Electrician%27s-Set-/ Since bigger tools are more then likely provided, this does give a pretty good small set compared to most of the other sets...

Made in China products are not always as high of a margin as people think they are. Nor are American made products devoided of excessively high profit margins. Dimitri

Yup. Lots of bit sets supposedly come with Philips bits, but if you look closely, they are missing the web between flats because they are really JIS but still labelled P0, P1, P2 etc. Dimitri

matt, My tools are in a cart, this is more for power tools etc, which I am currently lugging back and forth between the van and indoors at night. rk, The Knaack boxes have the padlocks recessed into holes to help protect them from break in. Dimitri

Proto should, they Mac and Facom all share product lines. Mac lists SCB76PTKS in 3/8 to 3/4 as 7 piece set. SMHB10KS in 10mm to 19mn as a 10 piece set Dimitri

I use a box end wrench, obviously 12 point and a mallet. Between those two choices anyways. Dimitri

So what is everyone's opinion on them? Also how secure are they really? Service van has been broken into and been thinking about getting a smaller one and bolting it onto the floor. Not sure if it is worth the investment. Dimitri

I only use Mac Tools (made by Facom) ratcheting wrenches now. I have not owned non-ratcheting versions in years. Unless it's bigger then 19mm. Dimitri

They are Okay, better then the generic Chinese one. Many of them are made in Canada. If you ever bought a made in Canada Craftsman box, they are the OEM. Dimitri