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I will certainly be paying attention to that as well. All the walls will be covered in 6 mil vapor barrier and taped, all of the outlets in installed in vapor barrier moulded boxes, doors and windows are well sealed. Any addition openings will be spray foamed.

Im starting to look into which lights id like to have in the garage. My initial plan was to have 2 circuits so that I can turn on half the shop lights individually in order to reduce the brightness when not required. I figure I can simplify the wiring if I have them on one dimmable circuit. I...

Johns Manville makes an R-24 Batt for 2x6 walls

I agree, I’ve decided to go with the R-24 in the walls. It’s not a huge shop and the difference in cost, although double the price of R-20 only comes to 300$ more.

2 3’x4’ double pane windows, 8x12 garage door R-10 sealed well. R10 Under slab and R10 around perimeter of slab with R10 skirt insulation out 2’ on all sides.

That was my initial plan but I think I’d like to avoid adding stringers in order to simplify the installation of the insulation under the storage area floor

I am going to be putting in the floor for the storage section of my attic trusses. This will be strictly for storage as it’s only about 3.5’ high, 6.5’ wide and runs the full 26’ length of the garage. Truss spacing is 24”. Storage will likely include seasonal items in Rubbermaid bins and other...

Yeah, I was starting to lean toward R-20 also. Most of the time I will be keeping it around 10 degrees C during the winter. Bumping it up only when I’m going to be out there. I’m assuming the benefits of higher R value are diminished as the temperature delta becomes smaller.

I am about to insulate my new 18x26 detached garage and I’m trying to decide between R-20 and R-24 batts for the walls. The cost difference is significant, the R-24 is almost double the cost of the R-20. R-24 is about 1$/sqft and the R-20 being around 0.50$/sqft. I am in Montreal so we...

I don’t see the crack coming through on the other side of the board as seen in the attached image but will will still send some photos to the truss manufacturer to get their input.

I just had the trusses replaced on a recent detached garage build due to a slight oversight by the builder. One of the new trusses seems to have a split it in and id like to get some opinions on the severity of the issue. Looks like a natural split in the wood but I don’t like the fact that...

Okay thanks, would there be any benefits to having the webs 2x4 rather than 2X3? I assume it wouldn’t make much of a difference in the webs that are in tension, but would the compression webs benefit from the additional strength?

With all other portions of the truss unchanged, wouldn’t the same design with a 2x6 lower chord all the way across be a stronger design?

Thanks, well I guess I will have to trust that this particular design will meet the code for snow loads in my area as well as the 30lb/sqft in the storage area. If thats the case than I shouldn't have any issues down the road. I have asked for the roof sheathing to be upped to 5/8" due to the...

Spacing will be @ 24”. Can you clarify what you mean by ribbon?

Does anyone know what members W5 and W7 add to the structure?

I think I would feel more comfortable with 2x6 across the whole lower chord even if it costs a little bit more per truss. I wonder if having 2x6 right across is going to create and issue at the outer ends where the fascia board would attach if I went 2x6 rather than 2x4.

And is it typical to have the middle 2x6 area to be supported only by the truss plates? Are these plates designed to make the joint as strong as if it was a single length of wood?

What exactly is a spread web truss?

That is what concerned me, nothing holding up the floor of the storage area but the truss plates. They will be pulled in tension by the load on the upper chord and in shear by the weight of anything in the storage area. This is okay?