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Unfortunately that was all I could find around here. None of the big box stores carried anything but so I figured it was the norm. Can’t say I’m too happy with its strength, definitely seems a little more delicate than the old stuff.

I am looking for some input regarding screw length for the installation of 1/2” drywall. I already did 2 of the 4 walls of my garage using 1-5/8” screws and I have now come to learn that these are too long for 1/2” drywall and are more likely to cause screw pops in the future? Do any of you...

Unfortunately I don’t have the software to do a full lighting analysis.

I think I’ve finally decided how I want to do the lighting for my small garage. Dimensions are 18’x26‘ with 9.5‘ ceilings. I think I’ll do 9 two bulb t8 fixtures with bypassed ballasts for LED tubes. The tubes I’ve picked are 2200 lumen 18 watt, frosted and 5000k. This give me just under...

Thanks for all the input guys, went with #8 2 1/2” nails on the top plate since it needs to be flush for drywall and SD9112 screws where it meets the bottom chord of the truss.

So you are supposed to use the 2 1/2” nails even on 2x lumber?

I am going to be installing Simpson strong tie h2.5a hurricane clips and they call for 8dx2.5” nails, this will work fine into the top plate but will stick out by an inch on the truss side. Is it okay to use 1.5” on the truss side? I saw some picture where people had used the 2.5” and then...

I started with steel trowel finish, and it was my intent to leave it that way, but I wasn’t too happy with how it looked so chickened out and used the broom. Maybe next time I’ll have the confidence to make a nice enough trowel finish.

I wanted to put some distance between the pad and the garage. What you see below the siding on the garage is just a thin layer of parging on 2” of rigid foam insulation, I didn’t want any relative movement between two to damage the parging. I will lay down some landscaping fabric and some...

I covered the pad with plastic last night and it’s seems to have worked great to hold in the moisture. When should I remove the forms? It’s been about 20 hours since I placed the concrete.

That was actually my plan, but once the concrete was mixed and I started to fill the form I was so focused on making sure I didn’t screw it up that I completely forgot!!

But if you’re like me, knowing that it’s perfect is all that matters, even if you can’t see it.

I even had the chairs in my hand at Home Depot but put them back cause I thought they looked like they would hold the bars too high. Live and learn...

Yeah bars are wire tied, the picture with it sitting in the empty forms was just checking it for size. I poured about 2” of concrete and then set the bars in before adding the rest of the concrete. I hope they stayed relatively close to that position as I wasn’t walking over them.

Thanks, the broom finish really hides my lack of experience with a trowel. Any idea at what point I should start misting the surface to help with the cure?

Poured a pad for the condenser unit at the back of my garage today. I think it went pretty well. Slab is 3.5” thick with 10mm rebar. Probably overkill but wanted it to try working with rebar. Feel free to let me know if you see anything that I could have done better.

Thanks for the input guys, I ended up going with 5/8” tongue and groove select grade so it’s a little smoother to crawl on.

The stud cavity I am filling is 9’ so I’ll have 2 full 48” batts and a 12” section to fill the cavity. Is there any specific guidelines as far as what order to put them in? Should I be concerned if the joint in the exterior sheathing lines up with the joint of the insulation batts? I think...

It’s actually a higher density Fiberglass so unfortunately doesn’t have the benefits of mineral wool.

Thanks, this is helpful information.