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I like your garage and car! Congrats on re-claiming your space! I did laugh a little seeing the small burnout patches on the floor :) Letting your car come to a normal (warm) idle before dumping the clutch when starting cold might help ........ Regards,

This is very timely for me. Thanks for the question and responses. Regards,

Thanks guys.

With that low front lip and the long rear I think you will need a long ramp. One almost the size of a ramp truck bed. There you go - get an old ramp truck bed.

Nice car! I don't think you will really like any of the options to make it work. Custom made ramps are the only thing I can think of due to the steep angle and how close the garage is to the pitch. As an aside, the ramps from an old alignment machine would work great. Regards,

Guys I could use some advice here please. The foundation is in and the floor and pads are poured. I'm at the point of choosing materials for siding. Although the garage sits well back on my property the facade will be seen from the road. I'd like the facade to match the house which has...

We now have a floor and pads! Main floor was poured yesterday, apron and pads today. Four concrete trucks for the floors. I've watered and covered everything and will let it cure for a good month. My framer is backed up for at least that long. Regards,

Great weather for pouring.............. Just a bump to put us back on page one. Regards, .

You sir, are right on the money. $962. delivered. Regards, .

I just had a foundation poured last week 36' x 32'. I'd suggest going 32' deep so the inside allows you 30' or enough to park two cars deep (depending on the car of course). My two 10' wide doors with a 2' space between still allows enough space to open both car doors. I went w/ the 10' wide...

Thanks for the reply's. It looks like a viable alternative. Regards, .

This is a product which appears to be OSB w/ vapor barrier attached, then you tape the seams. My builder is suggesting it and it doesn't look like a bad thing for the exterior walls, not sure about the roof. Think I'd rather go w/ plywood there. http://www.zipsystem.com/ Any thoughts? Thank...

Please Delete Posted to wrong forum - please delete.

Ok, so I came up with this for a plan based on the advice given. There will be a 4' apron on the front so I didn't want a saw line running into that. The floor will be 4" w/ steel mesh but in spots thicker due to penetration into the stone. So using the 30x thickness rule I should be good...

Some great reply's here. Thank you guys. This is new construction. Not really a high crime area (yet), but always a good idea to be foresighted. I've known about the long screws and steel plates but never would have thought of a steel frame commercial door - good one! I'll look further into...

It is time for me to ask this question please. I'm leaning toward a steel door w/ no windows. In-swing doors can get rammed in, out-swing can pried open. Any thoughts are well appreciated. Thank you

Ready for the floor pour next week. Also will have a 10' x 22' pad on the left and a 12'x 24' pad on the right, w/ a 4' apron on the front. Here is new shot from the upper garage - notice the new roof - (see post #1). Regards,

Thank you sir. But, my new dilemma is that because the door openings are off set and the left to right cuts will fall in the middle of the bay. Any suggestions here please? Thank you very much. Regards,

Thank you very much. I will pass this along. Best Regards.....

My floor will be poured next week and the concrete will cut expansion joints no charge. Do I need them? And what size? The floor is 34'x30' inside the foundation. Any advice is well appreciated - Thank you! Regards,