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I'd do recessed in the soffit and wall lanterns/ coach lights between the corners and the 2 outside doors. Nothing between the doors. Maybe a floodlight on either the peak (best coverage) or on the corner just below the soffit (less noticeable) I'm a full time electrical contractor, not that...

Agreed on all counts. I'm an electrical contractor, and you've stated exactly what I was going to write as I was reading.

The roof detail in OP is regularly nailed to the studs and is structurally sound, when built right and similar to the pics posted here. But OP terminology is new to me An "Eyebrow Dormer" has a different connotation to me.

I can't even believe this needs to be stated. There's a lot of judgement here.

Agree totally - code requires them. But from a practical perspective, you'd be lining a stone wall covering with a plastic liner. I'd skip the box extender completely and just use longer screws. This would technically be a violation of the NEC. Now if it were beadboard, nickelgap, wood...

I don't see a link in the OP. But when I found it on Amazon, it was priced a little higher at $137/ 250' and in the description said it was romex simpull. This is exactly what I pay locally for it this week.

I don't see the need to label the "in and out" cables. Not technically a line and load. A load is typically controlled by something. (disconnect switch, GFCI receptacle, Thermostat etc.) But the labelling is effective, nonetheless. The repair in the OP looks like it will work, I typically...

Looks like your original garage roof was not vented nor needed it. Not with just open trusses. If you insulated it and added baffles, did you also board the trusses to create an actual attic space? If so you need to install a ridge and soffit vent, or otherwise vent the attic space. To...

Same here in MA. I don't use either. Tried to in high school bc it seemed cool, and I kind of liked the taste. But I puked every time. I learned after a half dozen tries. Skoal, Redman, and Levi Garrett - all had same effect.

I would make wall brackets for a 2x12 staging plank about 5' off the ground. nail horizontal 2x4 at both corners and 2 openings so there are 4 support sand nail another 2x4 on a 45 down to the corner boards and window jack studs. (0r door). Lean the osb up against the planks. (fasten plank...

The conduit shouldn't be an issue. Any source of ignition (meter, light fixture, etc) needs to be 4' from the gas meter. At least here. That is gas company rule, not NEC. And 10' from a propane regulator.

Get a few more quotes. Specs seem thin and price seems a little high. Not outrageous. Got a pic of the house that it will be attaching to? I'd go higher than 9' ceiling and 7' door. 8' minimum is standard these days. 7' is usually if it is a "garage under" and you can't fit taller.

I think those should be installed on top of whatever trim you put on. I've seen that type of window installed on T-111 jobs. The drain scuppets are really onlf for if the windows are open and a little rain gets in. I haven't seen that type of window in a long time.

Klein, now Knipex, are all I've ever used over 40 years. Still like the Kleins, I just like the Knipex New England style a little better.

Any insulation will work fine here. I like the rock wool suggestion. And for the 100 square feet, a 1500W heater will be plenty. Back in the 70's with poor insulation, the seat of the pants calculation was 10W/ Square foot when heating a house with electric heat. Here in central MA. (my...

For a shed you could leave the back wall a little low, or shim and grout it, or shim your rafters. Any of those should be acceptable for a shed like this. With the door, I assume your rough opening is oversized, and you will install either a bought or home made pre-hung door and shim...

I have a textured concrete apron around my salt water pool. (Different look, but comparable to broom finish). No sealer and there are no ill effects from the pool water. And it's dyed a light brown and there are no effects to the color either. As CSR said, the salt is used to chlorinate the...

I'd be removing the overhead door and re-framing the jacks, studs, header, and checking out the rest of the studs and sheathing. Once the door is out, it isn't much more work to replace anything damaged. I'm sure it isn't limited to the header. And there isn't a whole lot of weight on a gable...

32x50 is a nice proportion and way less money than the 44x60, and still allows for a pair of 12' wide overhead doors.

You might want to just go talk to the Building Dept. in the town. Tell them what you have and what you propose, and see what they say. We can give you today's codes, in which case the existing 2x6 rafters probably don't meet the span tables (I didn't look it up). But what you are proposing...