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Why does the building need to be so wide? 44' wide to fit an 8' wide motorhome? Even with extensions open how wide is it? I'm sure there is a reason, but I'm missing it. I just built a 24x24 detached garage with 2nd floor storage, and I'm close to $30K in materials. And I'm an electrical...

I agree with everyone here. Keep them separated by at least a foot when running parallel to each other and cross at right angles. I've been installing both for decades.

I'd just buy a cut of rolled gym flooring and roll it up after use. They come varying widths I think. Something like this. https://www.greatmats.com/products/rolled-rubber.php

Fair enough. But I think we can agree that there are a lot more factors in the pull than just whether one is using a rope? I wasn't saying that it can't and won't happen, or that mule tape isn't better. The rope just works well for me and what I have available for a puller.

Same way you know that they didn't when you used mule tape. The standard practice here for underground residential services is to use type USE "triplex" or "urd" (both local slangs). Which is direct burial rated, and also sunlight rated. So if, in fact, a 90 "got burned", it really doesn't...

I wouldn't "share" the new roofline with the existing. Let the new one run parallel a foot higher or lower, so you don't have to marry the roofing. 1. It will save some money. 2. The break in lines will look better. As far as cost, your location means a lot. Here in MA, you'd be $20 -...

I've been pulling through pvc for 20 years with round rope and my Maxis puller. Never had a problem. Not arguing the mule tape point. But the puller doesn't grip the mule tape as it does the pulling rope. And I have a very old Greenlee puller that was designed for pulling rope.

I do a lot of reading here. Just had to check to see if I made the 100 post badge. :headscrat

The rebar must be encased by at least 2 inches of concrete and within the portion of foundation or footing in direct contact with the earth. NEC 250.52 Also the term CEE (Concrete Enclosed Electrode) is what is being discussed. I know it has often been referred to as a ufer ground.

I have a 28 x 24 with 15' ceilings, 18x10 door and 9x8 door. I also have the Modine HotDawg and it is amazing. R19 walls and R30 ceiling. Heats super fast. Install was a breeze as well. I think mine is only a 45,000 BTU. (I'll check) The 60K will do the trick nicely. I wouldn't use...

I'd hire a plumber based on the questions being asked. I've done my share of plumbing and layout. But it's not easy if you've never done it. Sure cutting, gluing, soldering etc are not difficult. It's seeing the whole picture, and venting, draining, cleanouts, etc. Along with the legality...

Maybe try a trim ring from a 4" recessed light trim. The kind that has a separate baffle and trim ring.

Everyone here is spot on. Plus I highly doubt you will get a third NM cable in one of those without damaging it.

3 ton - go conventional split system.

I'd pay him back for the 2 motor rebuilds/ replacements and take my compressor home. (Actually I'd give it to him, but above is my advice based on what I've read from OP)

They didn't change the wording from outlets to devices. They added the phrase "or device" to the original wording that stated "All 120-volt, single-phase 15- and 20- ampere branch circuits supplying outlets or devices......" It doesn't really change the scope of the requirement.

If you are going to bother doing it, run a 12/2. If you have a 15 amp tandem, move another 15 amp circuit to the tandem and then you will have an open spot for the 20. Or buy a 15/20 tandem - they make them.

That's the siding block to use. It comes in 1/2 and 5/8 lap, Dutch lap,and flat profiles

There is no minimum height restriction. I use Arlington Garden posts for outdoor receptacles from time to time. The nice thing is for things like Christmas lighting, you don't see the cord dangling to the house...

310.15 (B)(7)(2) allows for #4 Cu and #2 Al for the 100 amp installation described in the OP. There are a number of deviations allowed from Table 310.15(B)16. The 85 and 90 amps you cited are the general ratings of these conductors if no notes or correction factors apply.