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Are you fully insulating the interior cavities, then have original sheathing/ siding/ new housewrap/ new 1" foam/ new Zip, followed by the new siding? If so, have you considered that you may have a problem with condensation at the original sheathing? I know this is veering off of op, but...

Unless you are framing houses, I think the stick nailer is a better choice. In the '90s we used coil nailers. Then the stick nailers were driving nails better, especially on LVL's. Then the coil nailers were improved so everyone went back to them. IMO, the stick nailers are just a better...

Why not remove the PVC board and paint all 4 sides? I'd either to that or wrap all 4 sides in PVC. Looks more like a 4x6 column, with a 1x4 PVC board on the 3 1/2" face leaving 3/8" reveal (although that could be the camera angle) not that that changes my response. How many posts are there?

If you're intent is to get the shop up and running now, and install the metal interior panels in the future, I'd wire everything with romex, "in-wall". Wire the 120v outlets, lighting outlets, the lift, and EV now. Put up metal panels when time and budget allows and then run EMT for whatever...

Do you have any pics you can upload?

Some framers will just triple or quadruple the studs even if it's not a post load. Regardless, I'd go up or down, as well.

I'd go up and over. I hate drilling 2x4 walls. You need a nailing plate on every hole with a 2x4 wall, unless you drill it perfectly centered, with a 7/8" or less hole. You can drill that corner easily enough, and just put in a nail plate as you'll have to start the hole near the outside edge...

Either the ball that drops into the ceiling mount socket (with a notch in the ball dropping into a key in the ceiling mount) was never dropped in properly, or the ceiling fan wobble allowed it to 'escape' from the proper positioning is all I can imagine. Was this on a flat or sloped ceiling...

HA! I can see why. I have 3 guys working, and new residential pays in this area. 2 are young guys that can really move. I work full time as a building inspector, and have just enough free time to lay things out for them and bill/ collect/ walk-through/ etc. I mostly do semi-custom homes...

A lot of good advice here. I'd go with a handhole in the bed, cut out a few feet of conduit, and replace everything. I can't believe you were able to ever pull 250' of 12/2 nm, coax, and cat 5 through that length with (2) 90's whenever you did it. I wouldn't even try pulling the 12/2 alone...

We use NDR brand 'wafer' lights. (Not all are wafer, a lot of gimble fixtures have significant depth) I probably use a couple thousand a year. They all come with the push in style wago's . We use them. But years ago on the old school recessed cans, I'd also cut them off and use wirenuts.

This is the post I thought I had replied to explaining the intended sarcasm and apologizing for the typo.

I thought I replied several days ago, yes my post was meant as sarcasm. I should have added an emoji or something.....sorry.

I'd drill a 1/4" hole as others suggested for the ground screw. Nothing wrong with using the emt as a ground, but I'd run a grounding conductor.

I've seen plenty without a threaded ground screw, just not many that have been made in the last 50 years.

I used that on a brazilian mahogany deck around '98. It looked better than my interior wood floors.

Can OP show the quote and scope of work?

I get that sense. I'll never figure out who's who here, but the discussions are appreciated. I've spent the last 20 years on 4 or 5 forums, most of which have little participation these days. The action here keeps it interesting. Probably also defines the demographic, in a positive way.

Why are you supplying materials if you have a professional electrician. In my 35 years in business as an EC, I have never installed anything I didn't supply. Not saying I wouldn't make an exception, but it just doesn't make sense. And with the products you quoted - Square D, Hubbell, Leviton...

Here in MA, you could draw the plans yourself, paper and pencil. No stamp needed. I am a building inspector, fwiw. $300 is unrealistic. $1000 is a bargain. I drew my own house plans in 2012 the old fashioned way, on a drafting table. I asked a friend who did plans with CAD how much for...