Search results

I GUARANTY you the only reason the electricians agreed for you to get the breakers was because you were so hung up on the price of them. It was just less hassle for them to say "Sure. You get them."

Services are nearly always priced flat rate. If someone asked me to "break down" a price on a service I simply say "I don't price services that way". If they persist they either give in, don't hire me, or I simply wont work for them. Even breaking it down to labor and material is sill like the...

$1600??? Wow, you are that low in NJ? I am surprised.

Re: Home Depot Clearance Thread 2015 Stay in your corporate job. It's obvious you have no clue what it takes to run a small business.

Same goes for owner, I promise you.

Sounds to me like the auto translation of a cheap Chinese appliance.

Sorry, but you are incorrect, or at least your advice here to others is. Please see the correct post #10.

IMO it is absolutely crazy to run that circuit that far. Can't you move it closer???

6' ground rods are not code acceptable. They much be 8' minimum. Also, as Jlarson says, it is not code that they be checked for 25 ohms. If you do happen to check it, and not meet the 25 ohms, then you must install another rod, but that's it. You are NOT required to install any more or meet the...

Can you tell me what ground rods have to do with neutrals? | And how do you propose a DIYer test a ground rod? Go out and buy the required tester? Also, most electricians don't stick a 6' rod in the ground. We use 8' rods, and typically two, because that is all the code requires. Period.

I would assume.

Right or wrong, many areas do allow a 100A breaker on a #2 feeder. Other than the nuances of the code wording, I'll ask; what's the real difference in saying #2AL is OK for carrying the FULL load of a dwelling, but not for a sub-panel in a dwelling???

Just install them so the top is below grade. There is nothing in the code that says the rods need to be accessible.

Your description is odd. One is not 120 and one is not "220". There are two hots and a neutral on this receptacle. (Voltages are approximate) Each hot should test 120V to the neutral. Then you should get 240V between the two hots. I also agree, testing range and dryer receptacles with...

IF something, like your saw, is capable of being run on 120v or 240v then yes, the amps are halved. At the same time, a 15A load @ 120V, and a 15A load @ 240V, are both 15A loads. What has to be considered is the watts. 15A @ 120V = 1800 watts 15A @ 240V = 3600 watts For an example like your...

This! The information was not "obviously wrong". It's pretty silly to suggest that. Maybe it's not 100% accurate, but IMO that's OK. It is simply easier to suggest to a DIYer to use a DP breaker. A) Finding a handle tie can be tricky, especially for odd or older breakers. B) Handle ties are...

Then yes, you would use the spare spaces where the 15's are now and install your 20's. It's not really that you are "replacing" 15's with 20's, you're just using the available space.

I FULLY agree. Respect is earned, not something that is owed automatically by a title. slodat, also, this is the internet. If you are bothered by a little harmless banter then you might want to think about laying off message boards. This place is on the lighter side compared to most. Jerks...

OK.

Here is the actual table from the NEC. Also, why the #10? Is it a long run form the panel?