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Myself I despise snow blowers only one I cared for was an expensive all hydraulic powered one on a Holder 4wd municipal rig. Seems like as much snow ends up on the operator than actually gets blown where it needs to go. If the OP has a front end loader on the tractor a box pusher is the way to...

My lws handles viking brand which is the same as Norseman. Excellent drills but a little pricey when you get into larger s&d sizes. The drill and tap indexes by viking or Norseman are also very high quality with spiral point taps.

Tiger Tool is very high quality. On a 1500 Silverado I believe a harmonic balancer puller would probably be large enough.

A unibit to go through 1" thick material? Good luck with that. If using a 1/2" bolt drill it a 64 of an inch over in one shot and your good. Personally I wouldn't use aluminum as a spacer unless both mounting surfaces were aluminum.

I get it but that doesn't make it less foolish.

Why would you buy a bunch of expensive 1" drive sockets when it would be cheaper to get a long 1/2" drive breaker bar and corresponding sockets. The only thing close to that I ever needed for lugs was a 13/16" square in 3/4 and 1" drive for semi trailer budd wheels

I like the Pittsburgh one from harbor freight. It has the female drive on it and the shank is extendable with locking detents.

On my prime weld machines( 225x tig,285 mig multi process) I have a simple on off switch to initiate and stop the arc. That being said, mig for the win

Used to keep a dedicated 3/4" one in the haybine for changing broken guards. That was 40-50 years ago and many improvements in tools over the years. If I recall it was less prone to slip than a box end and if needed it could be double wrenched for leverage.

Before the autodark helmets became affordable I used to use a hand held shield for welding auto body material.

3/8", more like 1/8" capacity. Remember it's a still a used machine with no warranty that's most likely not cost effective to repair if it craps out. Good luck with your sale , just throwing a realistic viewpoint out there

Doing bodywork welding with a fixed shade would royally **** with all the tacks and tacks between tacks.

In all honesty no way would I pay 350$ for such limited cutting capacity, when a few hundred more would get something capable of cutting 1/2" material and a warranty.

Flux core isn't too hot but you will get a much cleaner weld with gas that wont rust as fast since you can clean it easier

It sheared because the drawbar wasn't tight enough.

That pin has nothing to do with preventing slipping, it's to aid in tightening the collet or other arbor in the r8 spindle

Possibly in the past the ring gear was heated, removed and flipped over because it was worn on one side. I've done it a few times on certain vehicles, but I usually placed 3 evenly spaced short welds to insure it didn't move

I like the Morse 8-11 blades for all but real thin material such as exhaust pipe.

Much prefer the lever hoists with chain. Have several with chain lengths between 5 and 20'. Much easier to use especially when lowering. Another nice thing to have especially for lifting moderately heavy items is the pullzall made by warn. I have an electric version but I believe a cordless...

That's funny. A full grown hog would could bite through 1x1 16 gauge tubing in a heart beat. Destroying anything in it's path is a hogs mission in life.