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That would be awesome

I'm almost done with a Morgan Chicago 335. Can't wait to see which one you found, they're very hard to find!

You are roughly double what someone will pay for each of those. The 40, being a stationary base is less desirable than a swivel, even though its equally as quality. They are in nice shape though, a little dealing will move them on to the next owner.

Thanks to Smitty, this is the handle assembly I was able to make for the Prentiss 22. I am not a machinist and don't have great stuff to use, but it turned out well IMO and is completely functional and dimensionally accurate. Left the sides flat instead of round. I originally made the disc and...

Sketch looks fantastic. Here is the assembly out of a P21. Disc is the same size as a P20. The plunger (taper pin) and stem are one piece turned on a lathe. The disc is retained with the end of the stem being peened like a handle. So unless you grind/drill/pinch the peen it's one piece in the end.

That is exactly what I needed! Thank you!

I know someone can help me out here. I have a Prentiss 22, I need to make the swivel plunger knob and stem. I have the tapered lock. I centered the lock on a mill and drilled and tapped it so I can use a stud as the stem. Can someone please give me the specs of the plunger disc diameter and...

Can you give me the specs on the plunger knob? Diameter, thickness, and how tall it sits above the boss? I need to make one for my 22. Thanks!

Yeah, I would expect all of $400. Like I said they're very sought after. If you really want a swivel jaw, they do come up for sale. I'm on the hunt for a Morgan 360 (6" swivel jaw) personally, might be a long time before one comes around but thats ok too.

A 406 Reed (swiveling rear jaw, swiveling base) can get up to $500 I suspect. Personally, $200 would be at you **** level, those are very sought after models. If you're just talking regular jaws but a swivel base, under $200 would be fair to very good.

I've seen that on other prentisses. From all the years of someone letting the handle drop into the meatball, cammed out the hole. A sleeve may not be a bad fix, or is you're replacing the handle, bigger ends would help.

I would think the new jaws would come with screws, but maybe not. Morgans once they were bought by Milw. Tool and Equip. went to the pinned T style jaws, which I like because there are no screws to mar up with the workpieces.

Went and took an actual pic. Here is my stuff. I have had to make screws for a Starrett jaw that had the steep taper. I also took a bit off these worn jaws to make a smooth set. They are hardened and I could still get several retouches out of them in the future.

To be clear, this is the screw type I used. My angles were correct. The screws were large for a 3.5" jaw.

I have a morgan 335 im working on and found the right screws. Maybe different models or time frames had different screws :headscrat

Go to the hardware store, you'll find what you need in a socket head screw instead of a flathead. 5/16-18 if I recall

Reed 1C 7/53. Numbers match on static and dynamic but they are extremely light. Vise is pictured in a stage of restoration.

There is a thread dedicated to the topic in the main tool discussion. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=400156 The ones on this vise are VERY light and I'm not sure with any paint they will be visible. Vise so had a few "apprentice marks" on it but I'd rate it 7/10 overall...

I too have become a recent Reed convert. I still love my Rock island, morgan, Prentiss, Parker, and starretts, but Reed had a few extra features that were really nice in the R series. Here is a few pics of my latest project, a Reed 1C. The handle is badly bent and will be replaced, swivel handle...

Thats funny, no pic, no model, nothing. Guess he wants to keep it.