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Assuming those are gussets at connections in the rafter drawing. You may want to use some structural adhesive in addition to screws or nailing. I actually used a heavy pneumatic wide-crown stapler (with adhesive) on last shed that I built and it worked out great.

Push-pull jack for moving heavy equipment or structures.

It's also possible the switch failed internally and is shorting to ground when switched in one direction. Are the boxes metal or is ground connected to the back of switch?

Believe I had an old router that used a pair of wrenches similar (but much smaller) to that for the collet. The thin end would index on a couple of flats cut into shaft and hold it in place.

Thats a good way to build the roof framing for sure but too late for that now with the walls up.

In all likelihood its Starrett here's one that appears nearly identical but with a Starrett rule. There were other manufacturers who made combination squares with similar features. This one was made by Sawyer Tool and has black checkered body (shaped differently though) and similar style...

I seem to recall similar rolls being sold in local hardware store when I was a kid during 1970s my dad may have had a similar set. Action Hot Forged was registered economy line of Thorsen sometime during 1960s or 1970s. See here http://alloy-artifacts.org/thorsen-manufacturing.html

Spanner nut or prong socket. I have a set of Snap-on believe they call them Antenna Nut Sockets.

This is just an example of a head that's branded and the notch. It is clearly different though (for example gap between retention screw and frame) so may be a completely different model or time period.

There's also no "notch" forward of the locking nut. It could very well be Starret. I would expect it to be branded as such but they may have manufactured the square under private label for another retailer without the Starret branding. It does resemble vintage Starret and for the price it...

Im by no means an expert with this stuff but I would expect it to be branded as Starret if it were. Also doesn't have the internal scribe at base of square. Is there a hole on back where a scribe might have been at one time?

If the other end can be removed I'd try lightly tapping it out with a dowel or broom handle. If not you can drill a small pilot hole in the end of the battery and pull it out with a lag bolt and fender washer. Also might want to try a bit of light oil or dish soap to see if it lubricates it...

Looks nice. You may want to buy a couple of 16's and redo the top 2x4 on ends so they overlap the corner joints it will lock the walls together. I'd also consider painting the inside of T1-11 before you assemble it it. Nice work so far good luck with it.

I do something similar with zoro add it to your cart but wait. They often send you a 10% coupon to encourage you to checkout. Wait a few more days and they'll send a 20% coupon. Done this at least 3 times IIRC.

Got it thanks. This all goes back to my original question if the remover posted by OP accepts a manifold gauge.

Then why have an access port for a manifold? All I'm saying is I've seen this tool used to pull core before evacuating and charging system. Core was replaced afterwards. ETA From manufacturers website product description states explicitly that this particular tool is intended to temporarily...

OK, well they apparently make a tool with access port if somebody wanted to they could. Haven't done it personally but I've been researching recovery equipment and have seen it being done on videos. I realize this may not be what's done in the field. Just learning.

See attached

Believe you can get better (faster?) Evacuation and refill with cores removed. I've seen videos where they use similar set up, install the valve and turn it off, remove core and install manifold, open valve and evacuate system and/or fill. Close valve, remove manifold and insert core, open...

Sorry but it depends. Generally, surge protectors work by diverting voltage spikes (from lightening, etc) to ground, so with no ground your sensitive electronics may not be protected. Believe specialized surge protectors are available that divert surges through neutral wire but not sure how...