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...plus interest? Compound? 5%? = $114!

When you say "piece of metal" do you mean a piece of metal plate? If so, JUST... dig to fit a car jack under the plate. If not a plate, I would screw some temporary 2x4's along the sides a bit above ground level and jack them.

My storage cabinets look very much like old refrigerators, the one with the suspect door seal has a hasp and staple to keep the door closed, the other relies on the magnetic seal. Since I live beside the ocean they do a great job of keeping things dry and mostly rust free.

I did something similar to a gatepost that had rusted off at ground level....pulled it straight and then drove hardwood tomato stakes down the inside. I think my post was only 50mm square, so 4 stakes did it. I remember (10 yrs ago??) they were a bit proud, so I had to plane them a bit... I...

Our local tip shop has single stainless kitchen sinks for $5, twin for $10. Some with draining board at the side, same price. Maybe extra $5 or $10 depending on if there is a mixer or tap installed.

Where I live many people have rain water tanks as their only water supply,no one ever treats water with chemicals (they try to keep chemicals out), and those hippies are healthy as hell. Legionella needs warm water, above 25c (78f) and below 51c (124f)

Yes, bung tap. We had some in our pub when I was young. With taper wood to metal you could get a surprisingly leakproof tap.

But as a very dear old friend once said (in the days when he still had valves (tubes) in his tv...) "if you have a car, a tv and a popup toaster you don't need a job, you have full time employment!"

Free? It cost him (or his wife) a bucket, soda and electricity!! I'd leave the top as is while I got used to it, then maybe a rub over with a (?new, more cost?) fine or 2nd cut file to knock some of the high spots off.

As well as tornado shelter that pit could double as wine cellar.....

Looking at your photos I reckon you do have room to through bolt; you would need to make a back plate with tapped holes (fairly accurately), slide it down behind your kerb, there would be a bit of jiggling and cutting to get your bolts to the correct length; that would solve all your worry of...

And if there is a floor drain in the room, make sure it has some water in it's trap.

My cousin is getting picky, he now only wants plastic peanut butter jars (they don't break like the glass ones!)

Original question; yes, scissors (old rough kitchen type, not mum's good sewing ones)

Why bother cutting them down? The edges will just hang over an inch, will flap about a bit, 2nd hand discs can probably tolerate a bit of flap!

OR, drill the bolt down till you get past the shoulder, the centre of the bolt is probably not tooo hard till you get to the taper. OR drill a side hole in the concrete to hold the sleeve down while you withdraw the bolt

Damn, my three part reply got lost. Try tapping the bolt down, slide something fine like the windscreen wiper blade stiffener to hold the sleeve down while you wiggle the bolt up

Yesterday I took apart an old hardwood bench (maybe not made so long ago, but made with old timber) with this type of screw as the only fastening, there were about 5 or 6 joints that were split, mostly close to the end of mitres, so in old hardwood definitely predrill.

Confirm that insurance is in fact per month, not "Oh, I meant per year"

Removed some bugle head screws from OLD, HARD hardwood, the impact driver did most of them, but it just rattled on a stubborn few. I put the driving bit in the old brace, (think "brace and bit"), and with steady force they let go! I had to drill a hole in some other old hardwood recently, sized...