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If the paint guns are clean internally, they can be used to shoot epoxy paint then tossed. No need to clean them after that. Locally, some of the really good painters will use the $15 HF paintguns to shoot epoxy primer then toss them as part of the cost.

Oven cleaner.

Metal Rescue is a superb product. Water soluble, it removes only the rust. Acid cuts into the ferrous stuff as well as the rust and Rust Removing Electrolysis get into the aluminum parts. It’s not expensive.

Don’t forget the Flagpole Truck. Legendary contents: A razor blade to cut the Stars and Stripes from the flag, a match to burn the remains and a bullet to defend your fire base or on yourself. In case you get overrun by St. Pete or the seniors over in Sarasota....

Stick outshines every type for use in windy conditions and when joining mystery steels together (tool grade to chineseum etc).

I’m with y’all doing it the ‘Amish’ way. Perfectly fine and refined throughout the ages. How did the pyramids and Empire State Building and Golden Gate Bridge etc., get built without a laser level?

All that I agree. For me, it’s one-stop shopping. I get a veritable spectrum of things and it comes in one box with one shipping charge. Sourced in many other sites it would be annoying and much more shipping expensive.

Stick (AC and DC) offers the ability to do things better and cheaper if it’s a specialty situation. Buying just a few sticks of Cast or Nickel or Hardfacing or Al or Stainless rod is preferable to finding an entire spool that might not see use again.

The wood ash is lye. A great cleaner for that purpose when dabbed with a wetted paper towel. Tough on skin though so glove up.

Thx for the history and lineage. I swear that when it comes tools, if you look far enough, the money is all going into one pocket.

If you get it, use it. Use it to its full potential and on material that needs the full spectrum of wire speeds and amp settings. Don’t forget to keep a 3/4 inch hold-off of the nozzle to steel distance—-it affords more heat time for the internal flux. And slow down on travel speed. Then, when...

The Petzl Zipka is superb. No reason to not have it as EDC.

Have it spend the weekend in Metal Rescue, buff it up and sharpen it. Nice piece!

They are at their best in the tear-down phase. I prefer non-pneumatic or bat powered for putting things back together—so I can feel it torque and not strip or gall, Just did the front brakes on a 4WD and it made pulling it apart so much faster and easier.

USDA Forest Products Laboratory has (had) a recipe for a wood preservative that involved melted paraffin with mineral sprits and linseed oil. It’s what Forest Service uses on their trail wood and benches.

Maybe pitch it to Lisle Tools. They look for ideas and request them. Maybe have them sign an NDA too while it’s being evaluated.

I’ve got one a bit longer with a pvc cement cap. I fill it with acid solution when I need to derust something. The volume is less than a pan filled with the muriatic acid mix. It stands in a corner of the yard, capped, until it’s done it’s work.

Any house party, gathering or mixer, the one standing alone at the chip and dip table.....that’ll be the engineer. Actually, a decent fabricator can help. If you have a community college where they actually have a metal shop I might approach the instructor and see if they would make it a class...

Try soaking it in rubbing alcohol. The 90%+ stuff at CVS.

YouTube has a vid on guys welding a 3/4”diameter stick electrode (5 feet long) on steel at 1000 amps. I’m thinking steel bridge supports.