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The Non-Return Valve where the pipe from the pump enters the receiver is the most usual culprit. It's usually a right-angle arrangement and there's usually a spring-loaded poppet in there made of a fairly hard rubber/plastic, seating on a knife-edge seat. The rubber/plastic poppet tents to...

Bahco are pretty decent. Pferd also good. Vallorbe excellent. I've not tried the Beta, so can't comment on their quality. It's worth noting that the supplier in the OP's link lists Bahco too. The 10" Bahco ******* set 1-478-10-1-2 AND the 8" Bahco second cut set 1-478-08-1-2 have a combined...

Best recommendation without further information is probably "don't grease it". See if you can find the manufacturers greasing recommendations for that particular motor. If you can, follow them. For bigger industrial motors with grease *******, the usual recommendations tend to be for...

I don't think I've ever seen a soluble oil recommendation for core drilling (annular cutters): it's always been a neat cutting oil. I've been using them for maybe 40 years though and it's gotta be at least 35 since I read a manual. The most recent recommendation I've seen for cutting oil when...

As said above, 14" is small enough that there's not necessarily much advantage to the Aluminium ones, but it really depends a lot on how much you use it and where: if ladders are involved, I'd certainly go Ali. If you'll only ever be working at a bench-mounted vice (vise), steel is fine. The...

A 4" holesaw can work well if you can run it slowly. As mentioned above, there is a risk of things going pear-shaped when the periphery makes contact. Things can also get wobbly as the pilot drill gets pushed around and shaves off the inside of the pilot hole. Expect to end up with an oversized...

What do you want to do with it? It makes a big difference. As does the local geology in some cases. For bigger holes, up to about an inch in diameter and usually vertically down into concrete, I have an older brushed 36V Makita (2 x 18V). It often gets used before there is mains power on site...

With both pitch and lead given, it would suggest a multi-start thread and I would sort-of assume it's a 2-start thread? Pitch of .08" will be between adjacent threads, but when you turn the screw, it's only running on one of the 2 threads and moves by twice the pitch? Of course the numbers...

The inflatable pipe bungs are pretty good. You'll need one to suit the outlet pipe and with enough hose to reach round the U-bend (I can't access the link in post#2, presumably because I'm in the UK, but it looks like it's for 3" pipe, which seems small for a toilet: ours are usually 4" and...

220 RPM on an MT4 seems pretty fast to me, though I'm more used to backgeared drills with sub-100 RPM lowest speeds and drilling steel and occasionally stainless. Will it go slow enough for the work you intend to do? MT4 generally covers drills from 1 5/64" up to 1 1/2".

Generally, hydraulic oil gets changed every few thousand operating hours on industrial hydraulic systems with electric motors, at best. It's pretty difficult to imagine a jack doing even a thousand hours of movement (just sitting in the raised position is not movement) or reaching the sort of...

Morse taper arbors can either have a tang at the small end, or a female-threaded hole for a drawbar. Unless there is a hole all the way through the spindle for a drawbar (so you can knock the MT arbor out by smiting the drawbar), do not use the drawbar type. There is usually a slot through the...

I'm in the UK, so availability of stuff is a little different here and . I'd go for a universal swivelling/rotating one with 4" to 4 1/2" jaws (and pipe jaws), without getting too **** about where it's made or what it's made of. Used primarily for holding stuff to be worked on, maybe at awkward...

The predrill and use a plain rod is a pretty useful way to improve the quality of cut, particularly on bigger sizes of holesaw used with handheld drills. The normal pilot bit tends to get moved about a bit if/when the teeth on the holesaw first start to bite and can chew into the side of the...

Not just British sports cars, but as said above, the lead hammer is soft enough not to damage the chrome on the ears of the nut. You've generally gotta give them a pretty definite clout, so lead makes sense. It's a long time since I changed a knock-on wheel, but I have a feeling I've encountered...

Looks like it would be ideal for sharpening saws?

A lot depends on the details. If you are going to be using your own tape for everything, it's really a case of picking something you are comfortable with: repeatability is more important to you than accuracy. If, for example, you are measuring a gap and giving the measurement to someone else who...

I am an occasional user: on-site maintenance work mainly. I've used a pair of crimping pliers for years with different slots for each size. With the onset of codgerhood, it's getting harder to see the slots and pick the correct one. I was putting together a couple of VFD panels and control...

No experience of the Stahlwille, personally. Generally with nut splitters, you get what you pay for. I have a similar-sized Facom one (maybe slightly bigger- it'll do M20 nuts, which are 30mm across the flats) and it has worked superbly for many years, usually on either 8.8 (roughly grade5...

There was a Group Buy of the 2" x 36" Multitools a few years back on the old British Blades Forum. I think the UK importer was retiring and selling off his remaining stock. I bought 4 or 5 and these had 3/4" bore drive wheels, supplied with some reducing bushes. Someone else on BB came up with a...