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Thanks I knew you could oversize the breaker but didn't realize by that much.

You can but you need to wire in an outlet that will handle the 30 amp breaker. Then you can switch later, but a 30 amp breaker is over what you need for most table saws. The wire is fine at 10/2, even if it is overkill, meaning 12g may work for some cabinet saws. The whole idea of the breaker...

Look up the saw you think you might want. The Sawstop 3hp pulls 13amps and calls for a NEMA6-15 plug. PowerMatic 3hp calls for 20amp. So you have plenty of breaker for 3hp and correct wire gauge.

Just for fun poke your head up in the attic R30 is about 10" . Most of California is zone 3 so R30-R60. I think if you have over 10-12" you should be good. Just another idea.

If you have an idea what brand and model, MrCool, Mitsubishi and so on, you can look up installation requirements. I think location 1 works better, but might consider if the outdoor unit is on a southern side. You need power to outdoor unit with a disconnect and a 120v outlet to the head unit...

Will you use the whole space as a wood shop? Most of the recommendations are for 100FC at counter height. Some will say that is too much. For detail work more light is better but also with no shadows. If you shoot for 75 fc overall you can always add task lighting over the main work benches...

Where are you located? Humid region or dry? I'm in eastern Washington it's pretty dry. When I installed my white oak 4.5" wide, I left a 1/2" +. I have had no problem with movement. I had a pro come in and sand and finish it, he said 1/4" is fine for our area.

dmurph: If you don't mind how old are you? If you are in you're 20's-30's then a temporary building seems logical. I would plan somewhat as this could be a forever shop, so don't overdue it but don't go cheap or leave out things. I'm guessing it's a mechanics shop? Auto work? Sales? If you are...

So any upper floor or basement? Possibility of a vent line or water line or drain line running vertically? Sometimes you can get wood stress that will make a pinging sound as you tighten a screw, so who knows. I have installed thousands of cabinets usually you will feel a nail plate. I have...

That actually looks pretty good, seems way more than 38FC, maybe your meter isn't very accurate. Once you get the walls done if you plan to it will bounce even more light around.

As a General Contractor, I have seen a lot of the old timer drywall guys carry a small sharpening stone. It's takes a few seconds to sharpen the blade back up, quicker than flipping it or replacing it. One guy use to put the date on the blade with a sharpie, think he had one that was two years...

Sika Pro Select, self leveling, polyurethane. I sealed with a densifier first then a cherry wax buff. Taped the kerf with blue tape and used the Sika.

Seems like you could benefit from another row 12 lights.

If is is a black water waste pipe follow the 1/4" rule. If you have to dig deeper in that last 50' to maintain that slope. If your slope in too great 1-2" then the water runs faster than the solids which get left behind and can build up.

Those look like my doors. Yes it needs to be adjusted a bit. The tabs on the side holding the rail have a slot that can be loosened and adjusted. The door should just touch the weather stripping. This gives a good guide to setting the door...

Well just like when you were a kid draw up a treasure map. Pick land marks that won't move like the house or a fence. Draw it on a piece of graph paper1/4"=1' or similar, draw a dotted line for underground electric label it. Measure for example house to powerline 2 feet / 18" deep.

Not sure Ditra is needed on a concrete application, it is mainly used over a wood subfloor to help with flex. It will help if you have any moisture issues, it will also add a bit of thermal insulation. You still need to prep the concrete either a light grind or an acid wash, thinset doesn't...

It sounds like you have the background to do the job. It is always nice to have a second person even if their experience in the task is low. You might only need them for an hour to hold the panel or run and get a part you left outside.

You could use black silicon as you slide mats together.

Well one option is tear out and pour concrete. If that is not feasible, then most likely your left with adding a 2 inch top coat. You can fix cracks, tear out spots that have (alligatored) = lots of small cracks in a section. I'm kind of in the same boat, I have a 170' x14' some 30 years old...