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I run these at the underground exit for direct burial. It helps keep the wire from getting scratched up when pulling bigger stiffer wire. https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-End-Bell-R5144008/204795812

The way I understand it it only needs to meet current code if you are adding it. Existing circuits and components only need to meet the code for when they were installed. If it wasn’t this way then no one could ever afford to do any electrical work because they would have to tear out...

Portable heaters come with plugs on them. Not sure why you would think otherwise. https://www.king-electric.com/pdfs/PGH2448-ETB_WEB.pdf

My fear is about what happens when the next guy plugs a 7,500 watt electric heater into that 50 amp receptacle?

That’s the answer right there ^ I just spoke to my electrical inspector last week and he cited the same two codes you did. He told me if I don’t want them then my recepticles need to be over the 5 1/2 feet listed as an exemption. I just bought tamper proof instead.

The label is on the side of the panel and is curling on the edges so it’s hard to get a good angle. I will try again when I get home tonight.

The breaker is made with angled terminals so bending isn’t necessary. I attached a photo of the sticker in my panel that says it can accept the 4 wide breakers. Take a look and tell me what you think.

the breaker in question. https://www.schneider-electric.us/en/product/QO2200/qo-mini-cb-200-a-2p-120-240-v-10-ka-plug-in-mount/

Is there a code against this? I haven’t been able to find anything definitive in the code book regarding this. Schneider makes the QO2200 quad size breaker that will fit in my main panel.

OP, please contact your electric company and see if they will set you up on a payment plan. Threads like this make me happy I heat with wood.

That’s one of the reasons I suggest running a meter main. He says his current meter is directly outside of the existing panel back to back. He would be able to leave his current panel in place and only configure to a separate neutral. Any added house circuits and the sub feed for his shop could...

Not to throw a wrench in the works but have you considered switching to a meter main? Then you could turn your existing panel and shop panel into subs off the meter main. 100 amps in a shop with electric heat could be slim depending on your BTU requirements.

You live in Texas and propane is forbidden? Isn’t Texas pretty much the center of US propane supply? Hank Hill wouldn’t be happy.

In the short term you could install the propane conversion and run it off a 100 gallon tank. It would still be cheaper than electric to operate and you could do the natural gas install later.

It’s great when you have coal close by. It’s the cheapest $$ wise per btu of anything out there. In my situation on the West coast there is no easy coal supply close to me.

That’s such a great answer I thought I would quote it :) A watt is a watt is a watt. You’ll get 3.4 btu/hr for each watt you consume. However many watts that dryer draws will all end up as heat in the room eventually. It would sure take up a lot of floor space but no reason it wouldn’t heat a...

I have a 350,000 BTU torpedo. It’s a roaster that will get my shop from freezing to t shirt in about ten minutes. I could only imagine a 600,000 sucking all the oxygen up in the room right quick.

Northern Idaho. Zone 6 Huh, I better put my location in my profile. Hold on.... Edit: ok updated

Absolutley, positively sure. I have the stamped engineering drawings of the trusses installed in the shop. They list a bottom chord dead load of only 1.00 pounds per square foot. I got this from the company who built the shop and I contacted the truss company to be sure. The upper chord is 5.00...

This thread is relevant to me. I have a 36x48x14 shop and it was built with trusses not suitable for bottom loading. This means I cannot install a conventional ceiling with blow in insulation. If I want to insulate I’ll have to do it hot roof style. The builders installed thin fiberglass...