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3798j: love your cars! Ray19MN: I think we all would agree with safety of a car lift being critical. I will likely buy an ALI approved lift. However, I have my doubts about how important that ultimately is in reality. The cost difference is not necessarily small, depending on the exact...

Is ALI approved necessary? I suspect the companies must pay quite a bit to the automotive lift institute to get testing/approval which adds to the cost of the lift. Is it really safer? Or is it just a racket for the certification entity?

It can be difficult to differentiate, for example sometimes the specs are clear, e.g. "walk under clearance" or "drive through clearance", while others are less clear, e.g. "max rise". I am needing to drive through, and would like it to have headroom clearance that I can work under it.

I am going to buy a 4 post lift. I have adequate space for most any lift, but obviously don't want to waste space if it's not needed. The 4 post lifts come in many sizes: standard, longer length, wider width, various lift heights and clearances. What are the pros and cons of the various sizes?

Sounds to me like Scotty at Legacy Industrial had the right suggestion for the open shop floor: clear epoxy with urethane topcoat. What is the prep and how do I estimate cost for this? Fred

Not sure, it was professionally done. I know they prepped with a diamond grinder. Has held up reasonably well but is now having some issues 5 yrs later, and that is just from parking the daily drivers.

Yes, it's pretty close to my layout. I have a 44x60 building, a 21x23 finished room is in the southeast corner. The remaining L-shaped space is open shop. I finished the room with Eagle acid stain ordered online from home depot. I used the "rustic" color. I sealed it with an...

I plan on using "mop and glow" or similar product to keep my stained/sealed concrete floors nice and shiny. Several people recommended this to me. Not sure what other wax options should be considered.

I have almost an identical layout in my shop (44x60 with 22x20 corner room, including Bathroom). After researching floor options, I opted for an acid stain in the finished room, with an acrylic solvent based sealer over it. I just finished it and it came out awesome! I'm thinking of putting...

Yes, the pooling is against the wall in some areas. However, it would just be for a short period, I wouldn't leave the water there. I would squeegee it out after hosing down. Probably can use silicone caulk at concrete slab to tile line. I think I would cut back the sheet rock and replace with...

My garage has a flat concrete slab with 2x6 walls. Unfortunately, the slab has some low spots that pool water in a few areas. The slab is 44x60 and the low spots are fairly large but relatively shallow, maybe a 1/4 inch of standing water in the deepest areas. It's not a big issue since it's...

I just ordered a Mr Heater 80K BTU from Northern Tool. You can get a coupon code if you google it. Brought my cost down to $449 and shipping to my local store is free. It's going in a 44x60 shop, with 460 sq ft heated by a different unit, so effectively 2180 sq ft with 12.5 ft walls to heat. I...

My building is 44 x 60 with 12.5 ft walls. There are three 10 ft high garage doors with high lift track. In planning my lighting, I've been struggling with minimizing the number of light fixtures obstructed when the garage doors are open, so that I can have adequate light while working with the...

I just went through this decision. The quotes for metal roof were far higher than the shingles I ultimately went with. Plus they look better on my design with dormers, imho.

Concrete is looking good so far, it's been about a month, no cracks, but not sure that means much. Yes the truck had full access to the slab perimeter, but it was a 44 x 60 slab, so there would still be dragging of concrete with hand tools. Dragging 5 slump is a lot harder than wetter concrete...

Slow progress, but coming along:

The issue is that taller than 8 ft doors are commercial not residential, and the cost is almost double. If you can get by with 8 ft doors, do it. Otherwise, be prepared to pay up.

My garage was built on a monolithic slab foundation. The walls are 2x6 with the pressure treated bottom plate on the slab. There are a couple interior walls where they used regular lumber for the sole plate, wish I would have caught that. There is no fall for water to drain, so if I hose out...

I just had concrete work done. Charged me .90 per sq ft plus materials for the slab. Materials cost for concrete here is about 90 dollars a yard. Rebar runs about 20% of the cost of the concrete. So for your 720 sq ft slab, taking about 9 yards, it should be around $2000. However, my job was...

It does seem high, but I got quotes for 3 door companies and this one had the best price and a good reputation. That best price was before I changed the door size, so maybe I should check again. Fred