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I'm installing a 3-way light switch in my garage using the layout shown. I've read this layout no longer meets NEC. Can I just run a neutral from the last light to the last switch box in order to meet NEC? Since I'm using 1/2 EMT for the run, am I exempt from the requirement for the extra...

I finally got some time to work on this again. I finished running the underground conduit, ran the wire to the detached garage, and mounted the sub panel. I'm going to use 1/2" EMT for the circuits within the garage. I would like to run: Conduit 1: Circuit 1: 3 120v receptacles on ridge...

I bent the 90 degree pipe, and it turned out great. The pipe is running close to the middle of the panel. Can I cut my own hole in the load center in the area indicated by the red circle in the first photo and run directly into the back of the panel? I read that the NEC doesn't disallow cutting...

Yeah, I'm thinking 90a would have been fine. Lesson learned, as I already bought the wire from wireandcableyourway.com. I'll chalk it up to the cost of learning the hard way instead of asking questions before-hand. Even with the steep cost of learning the hard way, I feel pretty good about it...

I was going to drop down to 1-1/2 conduit but couldn't find any sch-80 at Home Depot for the 90 degree ends of the run. I'm also going to use sch-80 under the driveway. So it looks like I'll stick with the 2" and the 12" junction box (BTW, your suggestions are brilliant--thanks!) I bent a...

The buildings are 130' apart. Panel to panel is about 145'. I will be using a 100 amp breaker in the house panel to feed a 100 amp panel in the garage. I figure the air compressor, heater, and table saw (all 240v) could potentially run simultaneously. In addition, my wife keeps talking about her...

I'm getting ready to run power from my house to my detached garage. I'm using 2 AWG copper underground 130' using 2" conduit. I'm not sure what the best way to get the wire into the house load center is? I plan on drilling a hole in the siding and fitting a 2" PVC LB conduit body from the...

The first picture explains it better than my ascii drawing. The air gaps would vent between the soffit and the ridge vent. The existing metal would stay screwed to the top of the purlin, and the fireproof poly would be stapled under the rockwool. The second picture shows a similar idea using...

Removing the existing metal is probably the best way, but I would have to wait until summer (it rains a lot in Olympia). It also seems difficult to get the existing screw holes lined up perfectly when re-attaching the metal. I'll give it some thought. In the meantime, I've thought of another way...

I'm at a loss about how to insulate the roof. Some posts I read say to spray foam between the joists with 2" of closed cell foam. Others say not to do this, because the foam won't go in the cracks between the purlins, and the water will condense in there and rot out the roof support. I've...

I suspect the roof is not leaking, and all of the water, fungus, and wood discoloration I'm seeing is from condensation. However the roof screws are 30-years-old. Should I get new screws one size larger and change out the screws in the entire roof? If so, what is the best kind of screws to use?

I bought a property with a 24' x 36' pole building on it that I'm planning to fix-up. The building was built in 1987 (30-years-ago). One of the rear corner posts has settled 2-1/4" into the ground, and does not appear to be rotten. One of the front posts has settled 1-1/2" into the ground, and...