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sansbury, $1,800 was the cost for material only. LXCam's post is probably what I'd be looking at. Maybe up the conduit size to 2 1/2" for power, 1 1/4 for communication. Pull 100 amps out to the garage and up the conductor size when you outgrow it, if ever. If you are looking to cut cost...

I just bought 225' of 2" and 1" pvc, all the fittings, and wire for 100 amps. Cost was less than $1.800.00. I'd change a few things for your job but it wouldn't change the dollar amount by much. For cost comparison, I'm in central MA.

They make a one piece expansion coupling that's a little less money. I prefer the style you posted.

I have extended existing knob and tube wiring as allowed. It's a lot different than traditional wiring methods.

It does, in some limited cases. See NEC sec 394.

The NEC still allows the installation of knob and tube wiring in limited cases.

A lot of good suggestions. As far as outlet placement, I like to install outlets where needed and for stationary equipment, then space out general use convenience outlets 10-12'. To me, outlets every 5', quads etc. looks cluttered and as if there was no plan for placement. Even if outlets...

Look at Greenlee PVC blankets as well. Not sure how you plan on using it but a blanket can be used on partially completed conduit systems where a box cannot.

John Deere 318, 322, 332 would all be good machines. Each have pros and cons, are older units, but all are solid platforms with good parts availability.

I have multiple drill presses. I use my floor model Delta DP220 99% of the time. They can be found for little money.

^ Everything sparky said. I still have a pouch, but I carry it everywhere, no belt. I see more tool bags now verses pouches and belts. CLC makes some nice bags. Some tools I prefer Ideal over Klien, but that's just a personal preference.

That sounds nuts. A builder we work with is putting up a small ranch for around 300K. How western MA are you?

OP should be able to add a main breaker to existing panel. No need to change it.

Add a main breaker to your existing load center with a generator breaker under it. Use an interlock kit to fit, something like this: https://interlockkit.com/product/siemens-ge-square-d-cutler-hammer-westinghouse-thomas-betts-challenger-crouse-hinds-feed-through-panel-kit-k-9011-125-amp-down/

A couple of well place emergency lights on that lighting circuit would take care of a lot of what ifs, and they are really inexpensive.

Do you have a local HVAC company you trust? I'd start there.

I have three radial arm saws, an older Craftsman that rarely gets used, and two older Dewalts that get used all the time. All three are mounted together on a long infeed / out feed table. For cross cutting one piece or multiple cuts with a stop, they are my go to saws. I rip with a table saw...

There's a difference between code, spec, and best practice. Separation is good but as far as I know, there is nothing in the NEC that prevents electric and other utilities being in the same trench. Other utilities and codes may say different.

Combination smoke / carbon monoxide detector on each level and outside the bedrooms, BRK #SC7010BV Smoke detector only in the bedrooms, BRK # 7010B These are interconnected hard wired with battery backup. There are a lot of other options that will get the job done including battery only units...

Green would start the fan if the unit is set up for it.