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Just use a single pole switch. Wire to a remote photocell first, then go to the lights. Turn the switch on if you want to use the lights, off if you don't.

Eley.

Close everything up. I've found it's better to not be available for the inspection unless they specifically request it. Leave the door open and the permit in sight. If everything is right, it'll get signed off. End of story, no drama.

They make a pressure switch with a low pressure cut off. If the pressure drops below a certain point a manual reset is needed before the pump will restart.

It depends. Way too many variables. Permanant or portable generators are added after the fact all the time without much trouble. Talk to your electrician. He should be able to advise you.

Check all the connections for tightness including the capacitors in the motor junction box and all the screw connections at the motor starter.

We would typically use a 3/8-16 bolt with a spring nut. Plenty of room for a 9/16 socket. I can't remember ever using 1/2" hardware with strut.

That would be caused by a loose or poor connection at the receptacle or cord end, not an overload.

Hz is usually a function of speed. Slow the generator down and the frequency should drop with it. I try for 61 hz with no load.

Lithonia WF-6 would be my suggestion. Similar to the fixtures in post #5. They put out a ton of light, IC and damp location rated, less than 1/2" thick so you can put them almost anywhere, color select, and you can dim them with a standard LED dimmer. I've installed hundreds of them and don't...

The three wire connector is for a BRK smoke detector. The three wire connector is for a BRK smoke or CO detector.

Nice machine. I like old iron.

This device would work well if one was adding a light or fan in a shower that does require ground fault protection. You could do everything in an existing single gang box.

Looks like the switch can be used with or without GFI protection. Depending on the application I can see where this may be useful.

Try here: https://interlockkit.com/product-category/interlock-kit-selection/siemens/

I'd be concerned that when one fails in a year or two you won't be able to get a matching replacement. Look to see if they are rated and or listed for use in a garage floor under a lift.

I stand corrected. Agree, split buss. I see it now. 2nd leg feeds on the left side.

Anything is possible. It looks to me like the 2p 60 is feeding a piece of SE exiting the bottom of the panel behind the main conductors. I see the wire below the bottom sp on the right. Wouldn't there be a second one on the left for a split buss? Not saying it's not possible, I'm just not...

It doesn't look like a split buss panel to me. Mian lug panel with no main breaker. I'd guess the 60 amp branch breaker is feeding a sub panel elsewhere.

It comes down to are you qualified to do the work? If you don't have a license, along with a lot of other things, you're not qualified. Capable and qualified are not the same.