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Kind of a mess right now, too many projects. But here is my Forward I10 in my 54’ long space. 18” from the wall worked out well.

Lol. People on this site get their jollies by calling out anyone that replies in a thread thats old. And now apparently even when its hours old...

Also wondering what diameter piping should be used for each loop. Seems like the primary should have a larger diameter, & the secondary should be same or smaller than the primary?

I believe both the units he mentioned are rated for what he wants to use them for: "The T-H3M-DV-N supplies hot water to domestic hot water systems (directly or indirectly) which can be used with storage tanks, recirculation systems, hydronic heating systems, radiant floor systems, and/or...

I just put a 2014 Camaro Zl1 (4200 lbs) on my Forward I10 backwards. Didn’t think twice about it. Thought it was common practice

Holy Moly is right! That's over 3x what I paid 2 years ago. Amish supplier.

The cables are only there to synchronize, the rams do all the work. The power unit side drops first because that cylinder is closest to the valve you're using to release the hydraulic fluid. As others have already said, you need to adjust your cables. Sounds like at least 1 is too loose. .

License prevents scratches? Insurance covers the cost to repaint? Please start your own thread instead of derailing this one for your own personal agenda. Fwiw, I am interested in the actual topic of this thread.

I got that same lift last December & couldn't be happier. Very popular lift in my area, I know of a local Ford dealership that has about 15 if them & just added a few more.

I think this would help

Look at the first letter of each word in RED text of the original post. In fact, you can even click on it.

Agree, & I don't see how any blame can be placed on the logic board, or the opener itself. It either turns the shaft or it doesn't.

Yeah, I've been looking for something more reliable and saw that RAB info too. I get a lot of random triggers, especially on windy days. I've got a combination of conventional infrared & radar type (e-senlite). The conventional seem slightly better.

Put a couple insulated alligator clips on an old extension cord & just hot wire the bulb to see if it works. Or carefully rig it together with electrical tape.

Are you measuring 120v at the bulb while it is installed? It seems to me that you would have a serious voltage drop under load if that internal relay was not allowing enough current to light the bulb.

Last winter I picked up a small bug zapper for cheap at a liquidation place. Thought I might hang it up in the gazebo, but wife vetoed it. Hung it in my shop, now I would never be without one in the summer.

I have one lift in the deep end of a 24-28'x54'. I would not recommend putting the 2nd at an angle, reversing back thru the 1st would become a challenge.

I don't understand the head on that at all. Looks like someone removed the fingers & made an adapter for something else?

Tyvek works well too. Protects the floor, isn't as staticky as plastic, doesnt dust and really brightens up the lower of the car. Pretty durable.

I have some old school 12v dewalt tools & ran across this on ebay...