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Carlyle

Is that a Takagi? If possible, can you post a straight on picture? I'm thinking of doing something similar.

If you refill your 1lb cylinder with vapor only from the 20lb tank, you will be severely disappointed with the results of your efforts. Think about a tank that you shake & nothing is felt sloshing around. That's how much time you would get out of it. When people use those cheater adapters...

Many automotive paint stores can custom match paint & load it into an aerosol can for you, but lacquer mixing systems have mostly gone the way of the Dodo bird.

I have that cart, but my welding skills are about on par with the brand, so I'll leave the logo on. I did feel justified to remove the "US General" from the tool chests tho...

Timely thread for me! I got a 3x4' dry erase board for my shop for Christmas. Was thinking of dividing 1/2 of it up with pinstripe tape, with lines for vehicles/equipment & columns for maintenance items for each. If anyone has done similar, I'd appreciate ideas because I'm not the best at...

Business 101: Any business needs to make money on everything they touch. The auto repair business is one of the toughest these days with the complexity of vehicles, the training, equipment & subscription costs, yet people continue to try to scrutinize every nickel they try to make.

And not everybody has a Lowes "just up the road". Lowes bolt selection ***** anyway

Beware of this tape. I ordered some on a Amazon warehouse deal thread before, and it is very hard to pull off the roll without tearing. I think it's old stock. The only way I can use it is to put it in the microwave first.

Sent you a pm.

So where is the solder located in relation to the crimp area?

How exactly do those work? Seems like you'd have to crimp them hot, or it'd be loose after the solder melts. I'm familiar with the solder loaded (non crimp) shrink tube products, however I'm not a fan of those.

Pretty sure it was on this fourm that I read where someone stated that solder connections were not allowed in aviation.

Has the door pricing gone wacky too? No experience here, but my attached door came down while backing my wife's vehicle in the garage recently & she doesn't like it's new look...

Same here @ 5600 watts.

But does it actually help? I think I once clipped a test lead to one & decided it didn't help. Maybe if you could somehow route the wire outside the building? I'm spoiled & want to pull in my barn without stopping & waiting for the door to open.. I don't consider it practical (or safe) to...

I have 2 8500's in a metal building & have to be within about 20' for the remotes to work. Wondering if extending that little wire that hangs from the wall switch would help.

Me too. I also have used 1/4 drive 12pt sockets to turn taps from a distance.

I have that same heater. It was able to keep my 1300 sq ft insulated pole barn mid 50's last winter.

Seems like the pea gravel is spilling out from under the edge?