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The type of garage door with torsion springs can use what is called a jackshaft opener. It mounts on a sidewall, up near the jackshaft (the shaft the torsion springs are on) and opens the door by directly turning the jackshaft. This type of opener frees up ceiling space so the garage door...

I'm pretty sure the only thing that beam does is limit how much deflection you get with rafter ties. It doesn't change the tension present in the rafter ties from keeping the side walls from spreading appart. It probably helps lateral stability of the ties simply by achoring them together...

Yea, the rafter ties are in tension, preventing the side walls from spreading apart from load of roof pushing out at base of the triangle. Joist hangers are not meant for tension loads. I know it would cost more but you can get rid of that beam by installing single piece lumber rafter ties (my...

I'm still trying to understand why that center beam is there going front to back under the rafter ties. My 2 car garage, 23' wide, has no such thing and rafter spacing is 48" OC (and was designed for snow loading, in early 60's). Is it because the ties were not done as a single piece of...

I was always sent to go find the metric adjustable wrench....

I thought the shop/house ratio was as large as you can possibly afford?

Great post. I need to start thinking about doing this on my brother's near 100 year old house with galvanized pipe.

True dat!

Seems like a good idea. How large are the panels?

Yes, nice work for sure.

Maybe someone locally can do ground penetrating radar.

How do you get uniform coverage with foam? It seems like it would be difficult. The only foam spray I have expereince with is the stuff you use between window/door frames and (wood) structure. Does the insulating foam expand less (making it wasier to control coverage)?

I'm installing an air retrun duct for 3 ton central AC system (that only had half of return volume it should have). It's in uninsulated attic space so I will need to add duct insulation to the sheet metal (rectangular) ducting. I see some rigid fiberglass board and many flexible foam/foil...

The attachment point of lower control are to subframe should be fine. If that area isn't solid, you have a lot more to worry about... But jackstands or spare wheel/tire, under the side is a must for safety. I use auto ramps for this purpose.

I hadn't thought of that.

Thanks Craig, I like that idea! I know I've seen large take-offs that I could add to the existing box and route the new duct to the existing plenum (with adapter change or new plenum) and then move the existing 14" duct to a new return plenum (to the left in photo) which would result in a much...

One thing I've discovered that probably should be fixed before adding anymore registers is the (single) return duct is very poorly spec'd and installed. It's only 14" diameter flexduct which, according to what I've found on line, will only flow around 700 cfm. It's also a poor installation...

Thanks Metl, it is cooling only so should be easy.

Thanks for the responses guys. Zeke, I now see you were talking register size, not duct size. So your system is pretty comparable to mine. PoorUB, I did find a chart that indicates 7" round flex duct would flow 110 CFM and my registers are square (w/ all direction louvers), so it sounds like...

Thanks for the responses guys. Comparing to what you have there Zeke, the 6 x 12 ducts are 72 in2 cross section and bathrooms ducts, 40 in2. My 7" round ducts are only 38 in2 cross section. Comparing total supply outlet area, you have (6 x 72) + (2 x 40) = 512 in2. Mine is 7 x 38 = 266 in2...