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If anyone is HVAC experienced, I'm hoping you can help with this question. I bought a single story house, 2000 squ ft (8' ceilings) and central AC had been installed about 20 years ago. However, they didn't include vents into the bathrooms (2) and a screened in porch was subsequently converted...

Sounds like a good plan. Looks good so far.

Nice work! Thanks for showing how you got those big LVLs up there.

I guess the code was pretty lax for a garage back then.

My back says no, no no!

So I had some time today to look closer at what was going on here with that one block pushing out and causing (or at least accelerating) the parge disbond. The block was loose and after removing a couple of shingles, and some scraping of the mortar joints, I was able to remove the outer face of...

I looked into renting them and found it made more sense to buy used (3 sections with planks cost what a weeks rental would have been). Stacking them is difficult when doing it alone. I made of this hoisting attachment with block & tackle to help.

Monza, the shingles overlap the top of the block wall but I don't know if there's any tar paper under there (garage was built in early 60's). But I am sure letting water get to the interior of the blocks is definitely to be avoided.

Thanks all. It's quite possible it started disbonding long ago and the block coming loose near the top is what started it spalling off. I'll check and see if those other products are easily available around here.

Thanks Bill, My local HD has Rapid Set waterproofing mortar, a cementitious coating which seems like it would do the job, at least for a short term repair before winter sets in.

I did notice that BillK and need to investigate further. I know the wall is only one block thick and when looking in that area on inside, I don't see anything wrong. I may have to remove the shingle to get to the bottom of it.

Thanks Bill. There aren't too many places that in my neck of the woods that sell that brand and I called two of them and they would have to special order it. Anyone else have experience with a similar product that is more available?

The garage is in CT and so does see freezing temperatures in winter. I think the cement covering is mostly cosmetic but it's probably a good idea to try and keep the foundation block from being exposed to direct moisture. I suspect the whole side will peel off pretty easy. Would you normally...

I did the same thing on this 35 year old tank (welded a patch). A ticking bomb...

That definitely ***** especially when you pay someone to do it who should know better. But you need to have that piece of mind when getting under a car/truck held 4 ft in the air. It will be worth the added hassle/expense.

Agree, it isn't that difficult. I rented a concrete saw and made the cuts so I could remove (lift) 1 square foot at a time. Digging it out wasn't too bad either but that may depend on what's under there.

I would saw cut a 4' x 4' area centered on each post or better, go all the way across, and dig out to 12 - 18", add steel reinforcement and pour. Then use epoxy anchors.

I have a MaxJax. If you do some digging you should be able to find info on a vehicle's CG. I put a mark on the floor to where the front bumper should be on a particular car and then move the arms to where they need to be to lift it. I've never worried about them being the same length...

I searched google for a PE near the zip code of the house. A few came up that seemed to offer what I was looking for. I filled out the contact form and (only one) responded to this: "I have a 2 car garage (approx 24' x 24') with 8' ceilings and 6/12 pitch roof (rafter construction). Existing...

I did get a PE to review my plans and he concurs with my choices of beams and gave me details on column footers, fastener schedules, brackets to use, etc. I've been using a MaxJax in my current 8' garage and I know not all of the 2 post lifts on the market require 12' for the columns. Even...