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Thanks guys. I guess I'm just trying to hedge my bets, since I'm a novice at concrete and this job s way too small to call a truck. I'm basically just pouring a 3 & 1/4" curb to match the rest of the garage (changing to one larger OHD from 2 smaller ones). I'm pouring it on top of the (old)...

I may be overthinking this, but I have no experience bonding new concrete to old. I have researched the topic and think prepping the old concrete with a bonding slurry is the way to go. I plan to use Sikka Latex R bonding adhesive / fortifier and am a bit confused on the timing for pouring the...

I started tearing things apart. One side had some pretty advanced termite damage in garage door header, but no apparent sag. I guess this lends credence to there not being much load here...

I have a Grand Prix GP-10C that I haven't set up yet. Looks just like this one. Is the motor 220 V? Did you use the mechanical anchors that came with it?

How cool is that? I didn't know there was such a thing!

That's a pretty good deal on the shed kit. I'm sure I spent more buying supplies separately on a very similar build. Wrestling those sheets is no fun by yourself.

The Flanders is outstanding! You are now a member of the Brass Club Club, the shifter being a solid brass club. It's great that your grandson has an interest in these wonderful old machines.

It will be heavier. They're great for uneven surfaces.

I'm planning to do something like Dan (post #17), where the foam board will create the vent channel. I'm thinking of using this foam board https://www.homedepot.com/p/RMAX-Pro-Select-R-Matte-Plus-3-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-13-1-Foam-Insulation-Board-637898/313501510 , and then add R-19 fiberglass...

Yes, thanks.

My new lift (GrandPrix GP-10C), bought from Bendpak, does have instructions for installing the wedge anchors. As for drilling the holes, it says "Using the baseplates as guides, drill each hole 4" deep using a carbide bit of same diameters as the anchor (3/4"). They also say "do not drill all...

I used epoxy anchors with my MaxJax and no problems for the 10 years I had it. I have a new, (10K) lift and am going to see if Hilti will recommend some epoxy anchors.

Interesting. It doesn't say so, but I'm guessing it assumes there is no contribution of a ridge beam (i.e. ridge board used or none).

Good idea on the CO monitor. I seem to remember seeing some service stations using a hose that went from car exhaust end to a pivoting cover in the overhead door with no in-line fan. I would think as long as hose was only a few feet in length (~5'), a supplemental fan wouldn't be needed.

I'm planning to do a concrete pour to accomplish something similar on front wall of my garage (fitting a single OH door instead of the current 2 doors), so I've been reading up on bonding agents. They claim that roughing the surface isn't necessary if used as directed. Seems like it wouldn't...

If you're sticking with 2 x 4 walls, I'm not sure why you need a 2 x 8 sill. A 2 x 6 will be plenty and might even bend a little to keep it lined up with CMU on outside edge (this is how my garage/shop was built). Some of the CMU will be exposed on the inside, but you can either fill with...

Yes, curbs for the wing walls (to the left/right of centered garage door). Thanks, guys.

Overpour is around 4". I'm also going to have some concrete anchors going up from old contrete, through the new stuff, as (2 x 4 / plywood) wall anchor bolts. I think these should help preventing independent movement. Also, I'm only talking about a pour area for each side of 10" x 6'.

Need to paint the roof green. Camouflage!

Related to my garage door change from quantity 2 9 foot OH doors to one 12' (https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/do-i-need-a-temp-supporting-wall.556886/), I'm planning to overpour concrete on existing apron for the wing wall extensions foundation. I plan to use a concrete bonding...