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That's a good idea on putting new header in.

Thanks, guys. It's not a truss, just vertical 2 x 4s, that go from top plate to rafters, sheathed with 1/2" plywood and plastic cladding on outside. Can you describe strong back braces? I've seen in some videos, they'll make a T-shape out of 2 x 4s (edge connected to face). Any thoughts on...

In reference to this thread on raising garage ceiling (https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/raising-garage-ceiling-questions.500414/), I'm also planning to remove the two 9' wide doors and replace with one 12' door centered on gable end. I read it many times that there is no load on the...

I have the 24' beam in place. Getting the ridge beam up top was a bit trickier, since the chain hoist limits the lift to about 16" below the ridge board. I installed collar ties at about the same height on the rafters near each end (near backwall gable and rafter pair just short of beam...

You might be able to save a big chunk if you do the concrete yourself. You can rent a concrete saw, remove the 4" concrete, dig the holes, install rebar and have concrete delivered. If you've never poured concrete before, you may want to hire a concrete finisher. THere are numerous threads on...

And it will be a lot heavier...

In case anyone is interested, I did cut a slot in the top plate. To avoid creating a hinge in the wall, I double strapped the top plate on outside of garage. It seems to be fine. I do have a cable tensioned between left/right side to avoid wall bowing. I was also successful in using the...

Crickets? If I cut the (double) top plate, should I expect the wall to immediately bow outward or would that happen over a longer time span? I do have a cable/come along I can attach to one side of the cut to prevent spreading. Or would angle braces to the ground on outside (from top of wall)...

I ran into a little problem I hadn't considered while moving one my existing rafter ties. Because the rafters are 16" OC, I can't skew the rafter tie enough (diagonally) to slip it off the wall top plate. I was hoping to re-ruse it and so don't want to cut it. Even laying it flat-wise, I...

Well, I'm finally getting this project going (had to keep the wife happy by remodeling the kitchen first). I have the LVLs, columns, brackets, etc. My PE agreed with my beam/column choices and I'm getting ready to lift the spanwise LVLs into place for the 4 ply beam. These are just shy of...

Getting the new hydraulic seal installed is the hard part. The video link in here shows the method that worked well for me. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/replacing-seals-on-maxjax-cylinders.555270/

I replaced the seals on my circa 2014 MaxJax and posted about it. It wasn't too difficult.

I've used the small hole and bent wire method too. I guess you could get fancy with GPR, etc., but a few holes will provide a sanity check.

Just an FYI, I replaced the seals/wear rings on my Maxjax and at first was finding it impossible to get the piston seal installed. The technique in this video, with the nylon straps, worked like a charm.

The above is true.

If the wall studs/ceiling joists are wood, I would use 1/4" lag bolts to secure the posts to wall/ceiling, with at least 1" wood engagment. Since the supports are 10' long, I would add a center height 2 x 4 to anchor the one that won't fall at a stud location (bridge the studs on either side of...

Nice to see a reasonable answer to your issue.

Nice work!

Other than replacing the control board with a new one, I'm not sure what else you can do. I believe these boards have jumpers and the position of them can be different, based on model. You want to make sure the jumper settings match the original board.

Yea, uplift is the only thing I can think of that would require attachment to floor. Hurricanes are probably not too common there...