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Thanks, Cobbler. The vertical panels appear to be trapped on top and bottom ends by a J-channel nailed to the plywood and it seems the only way to release the panels would be to first remove the top J-channel (assuming the nails are exposed when PVC facia cover is removed). The bottom channel...

I'm beginning a garage mod to raise the ceiling by adding a structural ridge beam (so to get rid of rafter ties). Eventually, I will need to remove the PCV gable end cladding to secure the exterior plywood to PSL column going from gable end top plate to the beam. It appears to be trying to...

I plan to use epoxy anchors. I've had good luck with them on my MaxJax.

I had been looking at Bendpack's 'new concrete' instructions and the way it's written, a new pour would have to be 12" thick. I called them yesterday and explained I was not planning to pour 2 separate pads, but one large area (18' x 8'). They did agree that 12" was not required for a cut out...

Thanks, I was thinking I'd go with 8" thick and spread it out over a large area (18' x 8') with the 8' being in the forward aft orientation of the lift. I'm guessing that 12" requirement is really more for separate small pads for each column. I would key it under the existing slab since I...

I'm shopping for a lift and from test drilling, I know I will need to cut out and pour a thicker, keyed-in pad to support the lift. Looking at Mohawk and Bendpack concrete requirements, for a 10,000 lb capacity lift, minimum existing concrete thickness is 4.25" while new concrete thickness is...

I struggle with this too...

I couldn't agree more. Don't cheap out when it comes to anchoring your lift.

Flex Seal! (just kidding)...

Did you check the torque on that bolt to see if it comes up to spec? I think this would be the only way to determine if that is just a near surface issue or has the anchor lost grip.

I thought if it had the ASME stamp it meant the tank was designed so it would leak before burst.

God's gas...

Thanks guys. I'm going to order one of these up.

Wow, I never imagined the HF manual machine could do car tires (I bought it to do small lawn tractor tires). Has anyone successfully used it for 60 series tires on aluminum rims (with duckbill arm)? I just paid $20 each to have tires dismounted and put on mew wheels. I had been looking at...

I built this with only a chop/miter saw, circular saw and cordless drill. Total cost was a little under 4 grand for 10' x 15'. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/shed-build-construction.244568/page-11#post-10879795 Lots of other ideas in the linked thread.

i hear ya, Burt. I am officially retired now, so no excuses. I do have a PE checking my latest change. I am definitely going to get thing going this summer.

I'm not sure I follow you CSH. I did have a PE who does a lot of residential work review my plans and he agreed the 3-ply 14" 20' long LVL would work (https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/raising-garage-ceiling-questions.500414/page-4#post-9707464). I know there will be some deflection...

Thanks, Cliff. I'm planning to use 2 plys 1.75 x 11.25 LVLs, so that's not far off what you have (and I'm only spanning 12 - 13').

Yes, important, but the garage door header/front wall is not going to support the ridge beam The ridge beam will stop 4' short of the front of garage (where doors are) and a separate cross beam will carry the point load from ridge beam to walls/foundation (see...

I just figured garage door going 2 small doors to 1 larger was generic enough to be a different thread. It's not dependent on what I'm doing with the ridge beam (which stops 4' before the gable end). Timing-wise, I'm thinking it might be better to do the door conversion before adding the ridge...