Search results

Yea, I read that wrong. But still whatever is under the rock needs have good compaction.

What is the compaction of the clay? I would think with clay, you would want rebar. Hopefully someone with more clay experience will weigh in here.

What’s the base below the 1” of rock? That’s the most important part. Fibers will somewhat help with small spider cracks, but IMO, not much else. Mesh/rebar will hold things together if it cracks, but doesn’t prevent cracking. Proper water control, expansion/control joints, and curing will...

I’ve had workbenches from 36” to 48” high. I’m 5’ 11”, and 42” works best for me.

Blow outs/spallings happened when you give the drill too much pressure. Go really light on pressure when you an inch from the other side of the wall, let the drill drill. No need for a pilot hole. If you happen to hit a piece of aggregate on the outside edge, not much you can do to prevent the...

I have a Fenix strobe combo on my night stand, great flashlight. For other stuff like bouncing around in the tool box or glove compartment, I have several Coast lights. IMO Coast light are not top line, but are a really good value!

the first thing a structural engineer will want to know is how much weight are you putting in the boxes.

Hammer drills work in concrete, but not very well; slow as a tortoise. Maybe back east with limestone aggregate, but not in the PNW with our aggregates.

Hammer drills don’t work well for concrete. If you need to drill ceramic tile, a hammer drill is the best; roto-hammers will break the tile, no mattear how light a pressure you use.

The correct gauge of pan deck will span 12’, I’ve poured lots like that; but not making an engineering judgement here. An 8” slab will be weaker than a 6” if not correctly reinforced, and you would have to reshore a 8” slab, possibly a 6” as well.. Contact a structural engineer..

Elevated Slabs for Dummies, Page 36....

Good for you. Enjoy!

Self leveling is just that - it will end up level.

The other end of abrasive rod is probably tapered, used for sharpening serrated blades. Unscrew the knurled sleeve, pull rod out.

You mentioned museum, will that be open to the public; or your private museum?

Awesome collection of beautiful bikes!

Sikaflex self leveling would be my choice.

Use a non shrink cementitious grout/patching compound. Mix it fairly dry, and pack in well with a pointing trowel. If there are high spots, hit them with a masonry rubbing block the next day. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-50-lb-Non-Shrink-Precision-Grout-158500/100318529

You are correct, new concrete does not bond to old concrete. You will have to use a bonding agent, AKA “ moose milk”. Remove all old crumbling/spalled concrete with a bush bit, wire brush and vacuum all dust off, and use a topping compound such as one of the Ardex or similar products.

Depends on why it’s crumbling, and how deep the crumbling goes. If it just the surface layer, bush it down and pour a topping slab of some sort. If the crumbling is deep, you may have tear the whole thing out.