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This gets my vote. Heated floors are nice, but they are slow to heat. If you’re only in the shop a day or two here and there, you’ll spend a fair sum getting it to temperature. Go with jack stand’s idea, them you can add a heat source later. Also, if you’ll have a lift, then you’re not laying...

Yes, your cage is 12”; with hoops @12” vert, and @ 4” vert @ top. If you’re getting this inspected or want to follow proper procedures, you can’t weld rebar unless it’s “weldable rebar”.

Huh, we routinely pulled forms after 72 hours.

I’m not sure vibrating the mix before pouring is helping. I know precast plants pour and then vibrate the molds for a while. Are you finishing the exposed part of the concrete after pouring? Thats the best way to bleed bubbles off and seal the surface.

There are reasonably inexpensive scanners ($200 ish) that will scan concrete to about 6”, these are not stud finders though. Bosch has some decent models. Hilti scanner are great, but spendy. You may be able to rent one though.

I hadn’t seen this model before. I have a couple 3/8” drive Milwaukee ratchets that I like, and this one looks good. Good speed, good torque, good reach, good price.

That’s a nice benefit!

You can get 1/2” “ceiling board”, which is more resistant to sag than regular 1/2”. Millions of buildings have regular 1/2” on the ceiling though. 5/8” Type X definitely preferable for fire, especially if you’re welding.

I was moving stuff into storage today while we build a new house. Here’s a shot of my roofing tools from the early ‘80’s. Shake/shingle hatchet, shaker box, nail apron, and hip pad made from an old inner tube. Construction was real slow in ‘81, so worked for a roofing company. Nailed a lot of...

A lot of chicken wire glass is for fire rating, keeps the glass from blowing out. Still used today, although not as common as in the past. Cool tag on there!

Way back when in the ‘70’s when I was turning wrenches; the service dept (your employer) paid your tool truck bill every week and deducted it from your check. You signed a short contract with the service dept for this. Weekly $$$ amount was limited, based on expected weekly earnings. Tool truck...

51cub got it!

I've been very happy with my Miller 211; if you don't need TIG.

I've had a Miller 211 for close to 10 years. Really good duty cycle, versatile. No issues with it. Great machine!

1/2" of concrete won't work, absolute minimum is 1 1/2" with pea gravel aggregate. Demo, re-compaction, and re-pour would be best, or chip out bad areas and patch with a mix of matching aggregate size.

I’ve done a ton of commercial concrete, and we do 3 day breaks; for stressing and/or next level form weight. A concrete design spec is for 28 day strength, early breaks are a % of the 28 day value. Structural engineer gives minimum 3 day break strength for stressing, forming, setting steel, etc…...

Concrete does not typically reach its design strength for 28 days. Depending on mix, you’ll get around 70% in 7 days.

The darker your walls, the less reflected lighted. White walls are too much for my taste, but I like gray; just not too dark. Black and red cabinets would be sharp.

Old school chargers don’t work well on new school batteries, like AGM. The new smart chargers work very well. I really like my NOCO Genius 10. Both a charger and maintainer. About $100. Won’t desulfinate or bring back a totally dead battery, other than that it’s awesome.

I have an M18 Milwaukee 4 1/2”, great for small quick stuff. I had to use it in area with no power to cut up some thick channel, batteries kept overheating. Fab work - corded every time. I just retired from commercial construction, Bosch grinders just keep going.