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Hey, Is your floor new? Does it have a nice power-troweled finish? Or is it a bit rough and oil stained?

This is why you never, ever, use Rustoleum. In my personal opinion of course. There are great vendors here with good products that have great support and actually care.

The coating should continue to the end of the slab or next available control joint unless you introduce an anchor cut. That would be a 1/8" wide by 3/8" deep saw cut into the slab that you terminate your coating system. I would not recommend anything less. If you decide to terminate your coating...

Is it somewhat level? Send it!

As far as surface prep, I'd highly recommend grinding to expose aggregate. Route out any cracks with a 4.5" concrete diamond blade on a hand grinder. use a 100% solids epoxy joint filler to fill any cracks, pop-outs, or imperfections. After that vacuum the floor like your life depends on it...

Heh, I am the exact opposite. I will usually paint (due to customer request) a garage AFTER the floor is completed. Let's me fix any issues where I may have struck the wall without having to go out of my way, and acrylic paint doesn't stick to polyurethane or polyaspartic🤷‍♂️

Here is what you want, 16-20 mils DFT of polyaspartic. You can do that in 1 coat with 100% solids polyaspartic. If they're using something with like, 50-60% solids it's gonna take 2 coats. The mil thickness is what matters, not the # of coats. I'd suggest just getting the semi-gloss and it will...

Roughly 7.50/SF, that's a fair price. Yes they should be using 100% solids epoxy. I'd suggest going with the polyaspartic, just because you can apply it thicker and in one coat rather than 2-3.

And I am not just saying that to be difficult, I just went through a very similar experience with the Forest Service building in Gunnison Colorado. I was supposed to do a 10000 ft² large aggregate Polish. The framing contractor dumped a bunch of ice melt on the slab and Left it on there for a...

Ahh, I gotcha 👍. Do you know what caused that to fail? IMO without doing some core testing I would be hesitant to recommend a fix right off the bat. I would not use Rustoleum for any step, ever. They are bottom of the barrel coatings. They use cheap raw materials and their coatings are not...

That is much more than simple spalling. That concrete is failing, or has failed. I would suggest core samples before you plan to do anything. Also, you don't want to use Rustoleum lol

It's pretty standard for epoxy joint fillers to be somewhat flexible in my experience. That doesn't mean you can bend them like rubber or anything, but they may have a lower hardness rating to absorb some slab flex if it happens. I would suggest using one of the 2 mentioned above

Disagree. Sorry but it is incorrect to say that polyuea magically adheres to concrete without surface preparation. If anything you need even better prep with polyurea because of how fast it cures compared to epoxy. If you want a successful floor, you must properly prepare a concrete surface...

Haven't got a call back for one that did yet..... Currently on a floor as I type. In the first pic there are 2 joints, one running vertically and the other horizontal. The vertical "joint" is filled with felt, between the stem wall and the slab. I cut the felt out and fill with Sikaflex SL...

Ugh, I am dealing with this same issue all over Colorado the last couple years. Basically what I have been doing is grinding the failing cream layer off, applying a self-leveling cementitious mortar, grind that, then a Double Broadcast Quartz flooring system using Polyaspartic. It's a PITA but...

I fill saw cut joints everytime.. Only time I don't fill is when they are large trowled joints.

The new concrete needs to be opened up to accept coatings. Doesn't matter if it is brand new or 25 years old, the concrete needs to be profiled. Plus you achieve a better Concrete Surface Profile with a grinding than acid etch.

No sorry, Mike65 asked a similar question and I thought it was you (OP). His question mentioned the silane/siloxane.. So please disregard that part.

If you densify after 80s, you'll almost guaranteed cut the densifier off with the 100's. My suggestion would be to density after 200 grit resin bonds, that way you finish with the 400's and the densifier is still in tact.

You could check out my Speed Cove post and see if you like that look. Additionally, see if you want to put the time, money, and effort into it. There is always vinyl cove base, not as appealing, but much more cost friendly and easy to apply. Cannot flake over it Another option would be...