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My furthest bathroom water takes forever to warm up, which results in wasted water being ran while waiting for it to warm up. I have been looking to add a on demand electric water heater, but have some questions on the best way to run it. 1 - plumb it up so it supplies all hot water: run cold...

I am installing a recessed box that will have 120v and low voltage a/v cables. I figured I need a 3 gang - the 120v side has 4 NMC 12/2 coming in, nutted together and feeding a receptacle on the box (calculated box size 30 cu in), then the 3rd gang will be a plate to connect the av stuff. I...

Basically I have a unit that has a water connection that sticks straight out the back, so when I push it back against the wall, i lose what ever the bend is of the flex line/risk pinching the flex line. I figure if I put a elbow on it, I get that space back since the water line will be coming...

I'm not sure how else to describe the threads, I can not find any standard name for them. They are not NPT. https://www.freshwatersystems.com/blogs/blog/how-to-determine-pipe-thread-type-and-pipe "Compression: A unique threaded fitting that does not mate with other thread types" They are the...

Anyone know if they make female to male elbows for water compression fittings? Like the this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099WHH223/?tag=atomicindus08-20 but with compression fitting threads, like for a sink.

people sell 3D printed ones on eBay for like $15, for all model blowers

Thanks for all the info everyone. I have everything set up and will give it a shot tomorrow. Another question - Anyone have any recommendations on a rust inhibitor for after electrolysis that washes off easily for painting? I have enough small parts that not everything will be done in a day and...

I'm restoring a old fairbanks scale, same as this one () and I have been playing around with electrolysis to remove rust on the smaller parts in a 5 gal bucket, but the base is a bit bigger. Its about 36"x18"x6". It also has all the moving parts concealed within that are pressed fitted and not...

I am using 2" flex from the main panel -> to a 18" pull box -> 1" flex -> 1" rigid -> sub panel The main and sub both have 2 ground rods Can I count on all the conduits being interconnected together and count it as the ground? do I need to use bushings with a ground? I guess I can also verify...

they're 2 water lines that are spaced out and run diagonal through the trench, and the trench ends at a wall on both ends so I can not dig it longer, I would have too dig way far down (~16'??) to be able to rotate a straight piece of 16' long conduit to get underneath both of them. It seemed...

I can't get the PVC 18" deep without ripping out more driveway for access - there is water lines crossing through the trench at around 14" deep. The trench is only 4" wide

The new wire is going to be #4 in 1 1/2" conduit, the old wire was #12 in a 1" conduit

I have a buried stretch of 16' along a driveway that I need to upsize the existing conduit for a sub panel. Basically the conduit comes out of the side of the house in an LB, goes down about 2 feet, 90 bends to a 16' straight section, then 90's back up for 2' to another LB that feeds into the...

something like this? I would have to enlarge the knock outs to 2" and 1 1/2" https://www.mcmaster.com/75065K18/

Sorry to hear about your close encounter with the mortuary Norcal, hope your lungs are getting better. I do plan to order a metal one from McMaster Carr, I can't find a 2" T locally and McMaster seems to have the best price, even with shipping https://www.mcmaster.com/7153K86/

I am orientating the T so the later pull will be straight and not the turn to make it a little easier. It is also less than 10' away from the main panel, so I could just pull back the first set of wires, than pull all the wires together into the main panel. If not a good idea, any suggestions...

Thanks, I think pulling 2 grounds when it comes time will be easier then. My city build code allows for 12 #4g's in a 2" conduit so I should be good

I agree but unfortunately all the other knock outs are used up already.

I am trying to plan for the future on a conduit run from my main panel to a garage sub panel, so I want to put in a pull box or conduit body T: - Run ~8' of 2" FMC to a 2" T conduit body under the house, main panel is recessed in wall so FMC will be behind stucco. - One side of the T (the 90*)...

Should say on the decal or instructions for the panel if there is a requirement. This Siemens panel says to install any breakers 80-100 amps at the lowest position, and every other slot is 70 amp max (for this specific panel)...