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I guess my main problem is just keeping things square and even. Some people shim both sides keeping the jamb centered in the rough opening. Some people screw/nail the hinge side directly to the stud and shim the latch side as necessary. What do you think is better? These are HEAVY doors (60+...

Pre-Hung

I have always struggled with hanging interior doors...and I'm going to replace all the apartment grade hollow core doors in my house with solid core doors. I've tried those hanger clips that are supposed to make it so easy and the only thing they really helped with was keeping the jamb flush...

Hey guys, I scored a vintage Craftsman toolbox at antique/junk shop in my little town for $5. It has the crown logo so from what I've read, this makes it 1960s vintage? I will post a pic later today. I'm at work now, ha. It doesn't have any significant dings or dents but the paint is in...

Looks great. What did you do for a ceiling? Sent from my Lenovo TB3-850F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Thanks. I should have room to put a 2x4 behind the interior girts. Will try that and see how much of a difference it makes. Sent from my Lenovo TB3-850F using The Garage Journal mobile app

Thank you! :)

Not sure I understand...simply screw an upright 2x4 to the backs of the horizontal 2x4s in the middle between post? Thanks Sent from my VS501 using The Garage Journal mobile app

Correct, will be fastening flat to the face of the post. Sent from my VS501 using The Garage Journal mobile app

Correct, will be screwing flat to the face of the posts. The posts are 8' apart. Sent from my VS501 using The Garage Journal mobile app

Follow up question. Would every 2 feet be acceptable for spacing? Sent from my VS501 using The Garage Journal mobile app

I am about to start finally putting up plywood as the finished wall inside my pole barn. My plan is to screw either 2x4s or 2x6s horizontally to the face of the posts, to which I will attach the plywood. Which would you use...2x4s or 2x6? I was planning on doing 6s but some ppl are telling me...

I paid 135 with coupon for the 12" slider from HF. A Ryobi is $250 I believe so more than just a few bucks extra. Sent from my VS501 using The Garage Journal mobile app

The 12" sliding miter saw I bought actually got a "Best Value" award in a test conducted by Family Handyman magazine, of which I am a subscriber. It could perhaps be coincidental that HF is an advertiser in that magazine, who knows. :)

Yes, one thing I've found is that there is a lot of play in the 0 and 45 degree detents. It will move move back and forth a couple degrees. So...you need to determine what is truly 0 and 45 degrees and then lock it. Kind of a PITA.

What are COO trolls? Not familiar with that acronym.

I have used a $60 B&D corded oscillating tool for about 6 years now. I like it so much I bought the same model after the first one got stolen. It uses universal blades that I can get very cheaply on Amazon.

This has been probably discussed many times before so forgive me (I'm pretty new here). What do you think of HF tools? I needed a new miter saw. Old cheapie made in China saw from Menards finally crapped out after about 8 years of use. Probably could have been fixed by someone more handy...

Yeah what's wrong with oaks? Sent from my VS501 using The Garage Journal mobile app

I like that idea. Thanks! Sent from my VS501 using The Garage Journal mobile app