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Getting the siding finished. Starting to look good.

I work away so I will not be home for half the time so im after a simple plain jane reliable unit. that why I was thinking a cast iron unit. years ago when I was a plumber we used to install lots of trinity NTi boilers and they were nice, but expensive.

Im in the planning stages for the heat of my shop that's under construction. I have been looking at all the boiler styles, and part of me wants to go old school simple and just put a lower efficiency cast iron boiler in. My question is, do people put these in for new construction or just the...

ya we built one. used it to stand all the walls.

still messin with the idea of solar heating the south bay of the shop. Alberta's planning on jacking the price of nat gas in the future for carbon taxes, so i tried a 32sq ft glycol heater. tried it with water out of the hose bib and it heated it 10 degrees through a single pass. thinking of...

need to get the door frames cut out still on the north and south walls.

got it rebuilt. got the roof on. was going to do shingles but after a wind storm and the neighbours losing shingles on their roofs i switched to tin last minute.

just finished unloading more 2x4x18ft braces and anchor screws and a new ladder to do the top plate to make this puppy secure for my work week. then within minutes of unloading the wind got ahold of the wall and made a mess.

made pretty good progress for just 2 people working on it.

finally started on the shop.

just need a stainless pump with a timer to avoid legionnaires disease.

I figured out my biggest problem. I was using the metric value for the specific heat of Air. so for a 24x44 bay with 16 ft walls. with 2x6 framing on 24" centers, triple pane windows, outside R5 styrofoam and a R16 garage door. I have a heat loss around 35000btu/hr on a -40 outside value to 70°...

How does one calculate the btus required for an air exchange? Ive read that a room should have anywhere from .2 to 2 full air changes per hour. So does that mean all air is just exchanged throughout the building or that the air is exchanged with fresh air and old air is exhausted out? Im doing...

24x28 garage, no windows, 16x8 insulated garage door, 1 man door. very well insulated. got a 45k modine hot dawg. wanted a 35 but the 45 was on sale at the time.

Well its the new year and this will be the year that I build the shell of my shop. I'm actually glad I took the year to save cause I found a few new ideas along the way. I have been researching solar heat as an aid to heat the shop. I built a 4x8 screen collector to see if the whole theory...

updates???

http://www.comstatinc.com/close-rise-snap-disc-p-736-l-en.html snap disc, closes the circuit when it gets hot, opens when it cools off.

im starting my 44x64 in the spring and pretty much gonna copy your design. I plan on making a 24x44 bay that will be heated by a solar collector. gonna go 20x12 with twinwall polycarbonate panels. Im just not sure if i should heat the slab with it or just run a glycol fan coil unig heater.

i have a modine 45000 in a 24x28x10ft walls and its over kill. only needed a 35000btu unit but the 45 was on sale at the time. yours will be more than enough. i dont evem notice the extra gas on the bill with full time heat in my detached garage.

real effective R values of walls and air infiltration/turn over always throw off the calcs when i try those calculators.