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Hard to see from the picture. Do you have space above and below the existing panel? Can you just swap the existing panel for a new one with more circuits? I think I would bite the bullet and replace and bump up the service same time if possible....I know it will mean an external disconnect...

Yeah the WiFi switch is a gamble...has good recent reviews from so called "Verified" reviews, see how it goes. I have it setup to go in a plastic box when it arrives. For the $25 bucks worth a shot.

Outdoor lights are led soffit cans so bulbs not really an option. Inside lights are led 48" tubes, non dimmable, so would never use the dimmer function. Shop is detached from the house so I really don't have a need for other things.....in the house different story. however the Zwave...

Not really a dimmer. One is a timer for exterior lights. One is a WIFI(iP) switch. Normal switches have the tabs you can break off. These are flat tops with no tabs. Like Below The are meant for a standard switch box. I think they will fit in a single gang gfci surface cover for a 4x4...

Hi Guys, Stupid question, over thinking I am sure but here goes. I have 4x4 square box next to my shop door with two regular switches, interior lights and exterior lights. I want to change them out to a timer for the exterior and a WiFi with for the interior. There are the decor/gfci...

The red and blue highlighting the amperage are illustrating which leg is providing the power to that slot. Line 1 or Line 2. not meant to correspond to level of amps

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CDVJA0A/?tag=atomicindus08-20 Can buy local home depot or lowes as well. I know not stranded but does come with the green screw already attached and ready to go....if you have a lot of boxes to do saves a little time. Especially with my fat fingers...

As long as your emt fill is ok I would leave the white in the pipe caped at the ends. Just pull the new red. incase you ever need to go back.

They are actually tile levelers. like You can use them as spacers if you want a small grout line...if you want larger spacing you usually need more of the normal spacers as well. OP...The Space Looks amazing!!!

Like you said you can switch the breaker to 20amp and change the receptacle. Or run a new 20amp circuit. It's pretty dangerous to hook a 20amp rated appliance to a 50 amp circuit. If the machine shorts there is nothing to protect more than 20 amps arriving at the machine....the internals of...

Those hooks are great for ladders. Lowes sells them as wheel barrow hooks.. $6 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-3-94-in-Black-Steel-Wheelbarrow-Hook/50258759 I use a bunch for other items too

My vote would be Read Iron due to the height. You can probably get some engineering to give you the Galv but I would think the cost you are into it for the wind load might be cost prohibitive vs Red Iron. I am in West Orlando, we don't have the Miami Dade code enforced but I just feel more...

Looking amazing.... 20% less out of your pocket lol

He stated that is max allowed because he is "Under" 10 acres. :)

Nice!!!

I am loving the build. I hear ya on price....Always costs more than you think. If I can offer any solace it's your a building one hell of a building...doing it all the right way and will end up with a product anyone of us here would be proud(and envious) to call our own. When its done your...

you can and you will get air under the baffles. Just be careful to not compress the baffles to much they can be flimsy and cup pushing flatter against the sheathing. point is you need to ensure the gap is there. Not sure what part of the country you are in, but if in the cold country to...

i'd call em rafter ties but each their own lol. one observation is the rafters are 2x4? Hard to put fiberglass up there and leave a gap for air. would hate for you to go through the trouble(money and time) of venting if no air gap.

"Joists" you mean running the width of the garage? picture would help if you had one. I would vent every bay because you will have no cross air movement between them so if you didn't vent you could end up with moisture in the none vented bays, purpose of venting in the first place.

will your insulation be right up against the underside of the roof sheathing? I only ask because if you have traditional framing and not trusses and plan to keep the vault....depending on what you use for insulation determines what kind of venting you need...for example spray foam between...