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per code the load to use for calculations is 180VA/recept. you can load a 20A circuit up to 16A 16 x 120/180 ~ 10.7, round down to 10... I usually put no more than 8... it depends what you are hooking up it sounds like you did a good layout... I might have used 3 also, maybe 2, and alternated...

Square D makes a kit to do it: must be rated for the usage and have the correct mntg kit, if so, safe and no big deal I think the red thing is the required mntg clip...

it's AC, they work both directions I believe this is allowed by code if the CB is properly secured it's called back-feeding

what brand/model ? usually it's L1 hot to 240vac L2 hot to N or common the neutral wire from the dist system is not used... DO NOT wire the 2 hots together...a 240 short...

117 cu yd? at 6" thick that is ~6400 sq ft... that is way over kill...#4 on 2' center, both directions with a 4" slab you barely have enough cover for the rebar... for a slab on grade, if the subsurface is prepared correctly (compacted, level, and some stone) the slab is under...

less density = more pumping for the same pressure plus the inlet pressure is lower, so less intake volume per stroke

20" LCD HDTV wall mntd on an arm w/built in DVD player and a small table radio, with great sound.. Tivoli

if what you are asking is can the 3-way to the far right be replace by a recept that is not switch, no you are short a wire... even if you removed the right switch and put it in the center and tied the light to that switches output, you would only have a wire from the center to the right...so...

are you saying 3 switches total? if so that is a 4-way switch with 2 3-ways the circuit could be wired in a few ways, ie, where the load is run to

you pinched the ground and shorted the device...

thank you, great deal...

that should turn out very nicley...no 1/2 assin' it

I agree...the clamping force does the majority of the work... although I've had all lug bolts removed and still could not free the wheel on a BMW...but that is not the centerbores function, although as a consequence of its geometry it does carry a small fraction of the load... the bolts...

dood, you couldn't even spell shear...twice it's easy to google stuff, but read all the posts almost to a man (woman) it's agreed there is a shear compnonent a single knock-off set-up has the wheel on the hub...and the hub is in shear... ugh

they are definitely taking a portion of the total force in shear the 'have' to... what would the forces be? most cars can't corner > g, so they would not be in excess of the weight...and that's why they have multipe, each capable of in excess of 5 kip, easy in addition to centering, the...

heck of a job...nice skills

it's good to share your knowledge :D especially since it seems to be your area of expertise... it's how we learn I'm guessing for a static unit load of 1 hub >0.6 (if equipped) clamping >0.2 balance shear, very small component also depends on loading impulse down on a pothole shear is...

just eye ballin' order of magnitude: say 1/2" shank and 60 kpsi steel and an adjustment factor of 0.4 for shear, still > 4.5 kip per bolt... very conservative...

it's 'shear', not sheer and they do have a shear component, they have to, draw the force diagram... the load is reduced by clamping/friction, and some designs a center bore hub lip... it's also why the nut/lug bolts have a conical (ball or taper) surface that resesses into the wheel, to...

I would use a high quality wrap around fixture like in post 4, you can get them with wood end plates...and use the cans for accent/task specific areas cans aren't good, imho, for area lighting in shop...in a home yes, in a shop, no... if you use cans, you will need more of them to avoid uneven...