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Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)

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torqueman2002

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spokesman

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Hello All ye Bench Grinder affianados

I just picked up this Craftsman Bench Grinder 1/3 Hp Industrial rated
model 397 xxxx dated 1964! Rarely used. Runs great. But No light no tray.
However, I noticed that there are what appears to be two scored punch outs /plugs on the back (see pic 3) so I am wondering if these were intented to be punched out so as to ad the gooseneck light to this and if so how would it attach and be wired. Any advice most welcome. Thanks in advance
 

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torqueman2002

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The small knock out is used to mount a 1/8" goose neck lamp.

Follow this wiring diagram to connect the wires.
115V%20Block%20Wiring%20rev01%20P1110134.jpg

If you want to use a lamp with a switch, move it's hot wire to the feed side of the power switch. Also note, the neutral Black wire from the lamp may have a White trace or ribs.

Here's a link with more information.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4556215#post4556215

If you haven't already posted your question in the let's see your craftsman block grinders thread, you may want to do that; it will get a lot more views there.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794

:thumbup:
 
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torqueman2002

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Any luck with this?
Leaf, yes I see the pictures.

257.191300 isn't a Block motor style made by the desirable manufactures listed above.

Like the 257.190470 Craftsman Vari-Speed I have from the late 80's, it has plastic housings and I suspect sleeve bearings.

They are OK for very light duty, but are not the build quality of the examples on page 1.
 

PureLeaf

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Leaf, yes I see the pictures.

257.191300 isn't a Block motor style made by the desirable manufactures listed above.

Like the 257.190470 Craftsman Vari-Speed I have from the late 80's, it has plastic housings and I suspect sleeve bearings.

They are OK for very light duty, but are not the build quality of the examples on page 1.

Thanks, I won't waste my time with it then!
 

Bogash

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You betcha!

Making sparks! :rocker:

Passed the ring test with flying colors. Decided repaint the center piece and the stand because of some annoying surface rust. All primed and ready for paint tomorrow. Going back with silver in the center and a hammertone black finish on the stand. Should be good. I can't imagine that this thing had more than 1 hr use ever. Will post pics once back together.
 

Vette10R

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Hey guys I have the 1/3hp block and need a wire wheel, what brand and size are you all using? I picked one up from Northern I believe a 5/8" and it rubs against the grinder so I didn't use it. Do I just put a spacer in there to move the wheel out words or did I get the wrong wheel?
 

Bogash

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Hey guys I have the 1/3hp block and need a wire wheel, what brand and size are you all using? I picked one up from Northern I believe a 5/8" and it rubs against the grinder so I didn't use it. Do I just put a spacer in there to move the wheel out words or did I get the wrong wheel?

I have this same question. Haven't bought one yet. 1/2 horse blockhead. Would like recommendation for a good wheel, too.
 

Outlawmws

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Hey guys I have the 1/3hp block and need a wire wheel, what brand and size are you all using? I picked one up from Northern I believe a 5/8" and it rubs against the grinder so I didn't use it. Do I just put a spacer in there to move the wheel out words or did I get the wrong wheel?


5/8 width or hole?

It's common to have to space a wire wheel out to not rub the sides. Even more common to need a sleeve to fill the gap from one shaft size to the wheel's size. those sleeves are sold wherever wheels are sold and in different lengths. Most I see are red plastic and are nested for all common sizes.
 

Bogash

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5/8 width or hole?

It's common to have to space a wire wheel out to not rub the sides. Even more common to need a sleeve to fill the gap from one shaft size to the wheel's size. those sleeves are sold wherever wheels are sold and in different lengths. Most I see are red plastic and are nested for all common sizes.

Outlaw, any particular brand better than others? The cheapie like to fling projectile wire bullets....
 

Vette10R

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5/8 width or hole?

It's common to have to space a wire wheel out to not rub the sides. Even more common to need a sleeve to fill the gap from one shaft size to the wheel's size. those sleeves are sold wherever wheels are sold and in different lengths. Most I see are red plastic and are nested for all common sizes.

Thanks I'll try spacing it.
 

Outlawmws

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Outlaw, any particular brand better than others? The cheapie like to fling projectile wire bullets....

I don't have a "preferred brand" but staying away from any no-name makes from china is a good first start, but they will ALL throw wire to one degree of another as they break over time due to the flexing.
 
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torqueman2002

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Hey guys I have the 1/3hp block and need a wire wheel, what brand and size are you all using? I picked one up from Northern I believe a 5/8" and it rubs against the grinder so I didn't use it. Do I just put a spacer in there to move the wheel out words or did I get the wrong wheel?
Vette,

I included some links in post #2, above. They're for: Nuts, Bolts, Flanges, Bushings, Spacers
For
Graingers - <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="326"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:10432;width:245pt" width="326"> </colgroup><tbody><tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt;width:245pt" height="19" align="left" width="326">Arbor Spacer, 5/8 ID, 0.118-0.236 In</td> </tr> <tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"> <td style="height:15.0pt" height="20" align="left">$2.00 on March 30, 2016</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt" height="19" align="left">Package Quantity 6</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt" height="19">
</td></tr><tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"><td style="height:15.0pt" height="20">
</td></tr><tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"><td style="height:15.0pt" height="20">
</td></tr><tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"><td style="height:14.25pt" height="19" align="left">Arbor Spacer, 1/2 ID, 0.118-0.236 In</td> </tr> <tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"> <td style="height:15.0pt" height="20" align="left">$3.80 on March 30, 2016</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt" height="19" align="left">Package Quantity 6</td> </tr> </tbody></table> I hope these help you, if you haven't already found them.
:thumbup:
 
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Vette10R

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Vette,

I included some links in post #2, above. They're for: Nuts, Bolts, Flanges, Bushings, Spacers
For
Graingers - <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="326"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:10432;width:245pt" width="326"> </colgroup><tbody><tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt;width:245pt" height="19" align="left" width="326">Arbor Spacer, 5/8 ID, 0.118-0.236 In</td> </tr> <tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"> <td style="height:15.0pt" height="20" align="left">$2.00 on March 30, 2016</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt" height="19" align="left">Package Quantity 6</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt" height="19">
</td></tr><tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"><td style="height:15.0pt" height="20">
</td></tr><tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"><td style="height:15.0pt" height="20">
</td></tr><tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"><td style="height:14.25pt" height="19" align="left">Arbor Spacer, 1/2 ID, 0.118-0.236 In</td> </tr> <tr style="height:15.0pt" height="20"> <td style="height:15.0pt" height="20" align="left">$3.80 on March 30, 2016</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt" height="19" align="left">Package Quantity 6</td> </tr> </tbody></table> I hope these help you, if you haven't already found them.
:thumbup:


Thanks torqueman! I really appreciate the help!

I just received the new label from pupuhd, I'm hoping to get the restore started soon!
 

Zeeman

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Awesome thread here Torqueman! I really appreciate you taking the time to do this. I have found great information in this one spot in a very short amount of time. Thanks again. You da torque Man!
 

rickhigginshtbr

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alright guys, bearings. I have a 397.19590 and a 397.19591, both 7"x3/4" 1/2HP. The 19590 definitely will need them soon. Would like to have them on hand before I rip it apart. What number from accurate have people ordered?
 
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torqueman2002

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alright guys, bearings. I have a 397.19590 and a 397.19591, both 7"x3/4" 1/2HP. The 19590 definitely will need them soon. Would like to have them on hand before I rip it apart. What number from accurate have people ordered?
rick;
My records show that "397.19590 & 397.1959" both have 1/2" dia. arbors.

I have used the following bearings on 2 pre-Blocks with 1/2" arbors. Price is from Amazon.

<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="501"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:1568;width:37pt" width="49"> <col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:2336; width:55pt" span="4" width="73"> <col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:2496;width:59pt" width="78"> <col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:2624;width:62pt" width="82"> </colgroup><tbody><tr style="height:29.25pt" height="39"> <td class="xl95" style="height:29.25pt;width:37pt" height="39" width="49">Arbor Size</td> <td class="xl66" style="border-left:none;width:55pt" width="73">ID</td> <td class="xl66" style="border-left:none;width:55pt" width="73">OD</td> <td class="xl66" style="border-left:none;width:55pt" width="73">Width</td> <td class="xl66" style="border-left:none;width:55pt" width="73">MFG</td> <td class="xl66" style="border-left:none;width:59pt" width="78">Replace PN</td> <td class="xl67" style="border-left:none;width:62pt" width="82">Price/ea.</td> </tr> <tr style="mso-height-source:userset;height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td class="xl79" style="height:14.25pt;border-top:none" height="19">1/2"</td> <td class="xl90" style="border-top:none;border-left:none">15mm</td> <td class="xl90" style="border-top:none;border-left:none">35mm</td> <td class="xl90" style="border-top:none;border-left:none">11mm</td> <td class="xl90" style="border-top:none;border-left:none">NTN</td> <td class="xl82" style="border-top:none;border-left:none">6202</td> <td class="xl81" style="border-top:none;border-left:none">$8.44</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
I typically do not order the bearings ahead of time, so I haven't kept terriffic records of what bearings I've used on which models.

You might want to post your question on the 'let's see your craftsman block grinders' thread (there's a lot more traffic there).
Link: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794
 

JZiggy

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I have only seen 6203's in flat top blocks. I like the Nachi double sealed, and they are cheapest on eBay, about $4 a piece shipped.
 
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torqueman2002

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Here's a very short list of Block grinders and the bearings I've kept records of, when I replaced them.

Block%20Grinder%20Bearing%20Details%2016-04-03%20b.jpg


I've placed an XL file on/in DropBox for anyone to update with their bearing information.

It's a save-only file, so just give it a unique name and sent it to me by eMail, post your info here, PM me, ....

I will maintain the file and post updates here and on the "let's see your craftsman block grinders".

Comments, suggestions are welcome. :)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g0kb1804ddbm9bq/Block Grinder Bearing Details 16-04-03 a.xlsx?dl=0
 
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bubinga

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I am supposed to be picking another one up Saturday for $30 it looks to be in nice shape as long as it runs nice if it does not run right I will try to get it for Less will post pictures in the garage. Post when I get it

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bubinga

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How nice thank you for the list of bearings the last one I bought was like brand new so I don't think it'll need bearings in my lifetime but the one I am picking up Saturday may need bearings so that list may be useful to me thank you

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torqueman2002

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, I'm sorry I did not read the whole thread but are those bearings fairly basic to replace anything special I need to look out for?

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Bub,

The bearing replacement depends on the model.

If it is a round top Block, without a relay to energized/de-energized the start-up winding, care must be taken.

It will have a centrifugal switch that must be removed from the RH housing before the bearing is removed. Note: On occasion, the bearing will stay on the arbor/shaft, then the c. switch must be unscrewed before the arbor/shaft is removed from the RH housing.

If it is a flat top Block or a round top with a relay, the process is straight forward.

If the bearing stays on the arbor/shaft, I prefer to use a small bearing splitter and puller.

Here are some threads you may find helpful.
Craftsman 1/4 HP Bench Grinder m-115.19500 - pre-Block style

  • Shaft clean-up
  • Centrifugal SW
  • Detail of RH casting, showing shoulder/ridge on inner edge of bearing mounting.
  • Bearing Removal with/out splitter
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269760


Block Grinder rescue - UPDATE: Go-Blue! 1 H.P. Model 257.191600

  • Bearing Removal with splitter & C-Clip
  • Bearing Measurement
  • Water damaged stones that passed ring test
http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=18119.0


A really sad looking CM Block Grinder - 1 HP m-257.191600

  • Shaft clean-up
  • Bearing Removal with splitter & C-Clip
  • Housing & Outer race
  • Bearing Measurement
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279094


If you haven't already found your way over to the: 'let's see your craftsman block grinders' thread; it has a lot of readers/contributors. You will get a lot of help here --> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5656181#post5656181


Feel free to post your questions or PM me directly.


:thumbup:
 
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Zeeman

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I'm trying to wire a lamp to my 397.19580. I don't understand the diagram I saw posted. Can someone please tell me how to do this is simple terms this dummy can understand? Thanks. I would like to be able to use the light or not use it whether the grinder is on or not.
 
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torqueman2002

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I'm trying to wire a lamp to my 397.19580. I don't understand the diagram I saw posted. Can someone please tell me how to do this is simple terms this dummy can understand? Thanks. I would like to be able to use the light or not use it whether the grinder is on or not.
Sure thing.

115V%20Block%20Wiring%20rev01%20P1110134.jpg



You will need a lamp with a switch.

Disconnect the grinder from the outlet.

Look at the lamp, power switch and relay in the drawing above.

We can ignore the rest of the diagram, for this project.

The lamp wires will probably be the same color, maybe one has a colored stripe, or has ribs, and the other is smooth and no colored strip.
imagesqtbnANd9GcRJAjytjm7H0JikDOgE0.jpg


How%20to%20wire%20a%20Socket_01.jpg


Connect the smooth/wire with no stripe to the 'Hot' side of the switch. [this will send power to the lamp, all the time]. This is the same side as the black wire from the power cord is connected to.

If the switch needs an extra male terminal, use a (1->2) adapter like this one.
41M1SG7WTQL.jpg

Search Amazon for "piggyback connectors".

Connect the other wire - to the same terminal (4, above) as the white wire from the power cord.

Here's a picture of a grinder wired for the lamp to turn ON/OFF, even when the grinder power switch is OFF.
9f02276a-c0e0-4e6b-afb8-d561006871a9.jpg


This shows yet another style of terminal adapter - shaped like a chair.
View media item 46179
More piggybacks.
Heatshrinkinsulatedpiggybackterminal.jpg


piggy-back-blue-6113-p.jpg
 
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JZiggy

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I bought a bag of those adapters so if you need one I can throw one in an envelope for you.
 

Zeeman

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Thanks guys for the great information and offer to send the connector. I'm at work now, and we have a filter that does not allow pictures from certain sites. I'll work on it when I get home and can see the pics. Thanks again!
 
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