Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)

EOC_Jason · Sep 18, 2017

Take the wheels and guards off. Does it spin freely by hand? If yes, then flip it over and remove the bottom cover. Do you see any moisture in there? If so maybe just leave it open like that to dry? Pour some rice in there to absorb the moisture?

The only way I could think water would get in is along the edge of the center metal strip?

torqueman2002 · Sep 18, 2017

I agree with Jason.

You may try a hair dryer, when you wife isn't home (hehehe), on low to dry out the switch and windings and relay.

Oh, if the grinding stones got wet, the binding material will degrade and they are a potential health and safety hazard, and should be destroyed and replaced.

droptical · Sep 23, 2017

I've been working on restoring a 397.19580 block grinder. Everything's painted now and was preparing to reassemble today, so I looked up the assembly drawing to identify the casing halves. The parts list tells me that I should have p/n 3161172 for the LH casing and p/n 3161439 for the RH casing. Why do I have 2 halves that are marked with p/n 3161171-6! Was this just due to a change in design somewhere along the line or should I sell the parts on ebay? :dunno:

When I started it up the first time it made a hell of a racket. I took it apart and determined the bearings were shot so I've just assumed since then that the bearings were the cause of the noise. I'm thinking now it could have been caused by an alignment issue due to mismatched casing halves. Have any of you run into this before?

Andy

torqueman2002 · Sep 24, 2017

droptical said:
I've been working on restoring a 397.19580 block grinder. Everything's painted now and was preparing to reassemble today, so I looked up the assembly drawing to identify the casing halves. The parts list tells me that I should have p/n 3161172 for the LH casing and p/n 3161439 for the RH casing. Why do I have 2 halves that are marked with p/n 3161171-6! Was this just due to a change in design somewhere along the line or should I sell the parts on ebay? When I started it up the first time it made a hell of a racket. I took it apart and determined the bearings were shot so I've just assumed since then that the bearings were the cause of the noise. I'm thinking now it could have been caused by an alignment issue due to mismatched casing halves. Have any of you run into this before?

Andy

The RH & LH End Frames are different to accommodate the power cable (RH), and possibly other differences; ie: relay mounting boss, ....

Below is a link to alignment of the rotor assembly, relative to the End Frames.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5181709#post5181709

dogzbody1 · Sep 25, 2017

I just collected a model 115.19500 (Mfrs No. S-7561). It is an old grinder in a gold rather than gray color. If I read it correctly the date code is March of '57.

The 1/4 HP grinder is complete including the faceplate that says "For farm and home use only."

It worked well the first time I plugged it in but the second time it got off to a slow start and started smoking. Electrical is beyond me, is this machine scrap or are these repairable - electrically as well as mechanically?

Thanks
Steve

alpinewhite · Sep 25, 2017

FJ 432 said:
Need some help guys.

(2) of my 1/3 hp block grinders were left outside recently and a rain storm got them wet enough to where once plugged in they trip the breaker. Are they toast? Can some one point me to a repair that someone has already posted in this thread? Thanks.

Open the bottom and used some compressed air to get rid of water inside. Keep doing this for a minute or so.

torqueman2002 · Sep 25, 2017

dogzbody1 said:
I just collected a model 115.19500 (Mfrs No. S-7561). It is an old grinder in a gold rather than gray color. If I read it correctly the date code is March of '57.

The 1/4 HP grinder is complete including the faceplate that says "For farm and home use only."

It worked well the first time I plugged it in but the second time it got off to a slow start and started smoking. Electrical is beyond me, is this machine scrap or are these repairable - electrically as well as mechanically?

Thanks
Steve

Hi Steve,

Welcome to CM grinder ownership. Is this your first, or ....?

As you suspect, smoke is not a good sign, but it might not be fatal.

I sounds like the internal switch that energizes the stat-up winding may be malfunctioning.

Here is a thread where a 1/4-HP m-115.xxxxx with similar components is taken apart.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244181
You will need to check that the windings are sound - not OPEN or SHORTED.

I'll look for a suitable post/thread and post it for you. You will need a basic multi-meter for some testing.

dogzbody1 · Sep 25, 2017

Hi

Thank you for your quick replay and help!

I do have another, a later one with plastic shields but thought this was neat because it called out farm use. I have a meter somewhere in the garage from working on cars (pre-computers).

Maybe we can bring this one back to life?!

Thanks again
Steve

droptical · Sep 25, 2017

torqueman2002 said:
The RH & LH End Frames are different to accommodate the power cable (RH), and possibly other differences; ie: relay mounting boss, ....

Below is a link to alignment of the rotor assembly, relative to the End Frames.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5181709#post5181709

Torqeman,

Thank you for that link. I just came back in from the garage where I've successfully assembled the grinder with the parts as they are. It seems to be running perfectly and quietly so far.

I want to also thank you for helping me pick paint colors for my first block restore (rustoleum hammered dark bronze and copper). Of course, the fact that I already had those two on the shelf is what really made the decision. :lol:

Andy

torqueman2002 · Sep 27, 2017

dogzbody1 said:
Hi

Thank you for your quick replay and help!

I do have another, a later one with plastic shields but thought this was neat because it called out farm use. I have a meter somewhere in the garage from working on cars (pre-computers).

Maybe we can bring this one back to life?!

Thanks again
Steve

Hi Steve,

There's another 1/4-HP thread you may find helpful. "1/4-HP Bench Grinder m-115.19500 - pre-Block style" - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269760

I looked for resistance values for this 1/4-HP model, but unfortunately I don't have any.

However, below are values for a 1/3-HP Block grinder that can serve as a guide.

Fi%20Field%20Coil%20Winding%20Resistance%200.33-HP%20m-397.19580.jpg

Best luck.

Let us know how you make out.

Edit: While it is the 'AC impedance that controls the amperage thru the motor' and the 'power' rating, the resistance readings are useful to determine if a winding is OPEN or SHORTED to the case or to another winding.

elguappo · Sep 28, 2017

Man I just love how this thread keeps on truckin...

nutjob · Oct 4, 2017

Just picked up a 397.19580 1/3 HP. Nice condition and almost all parts accounted for.
But it is missing 1 wheel flange. It measures 2 7/8" wide and about 3/16" thick. If anyone has one and willing to sell please PM me.

Should this be in the Wanted section?

Thanks for any help

Kevin

torqueman2002 · Oct 4, 2017

nutjob said:
Just picked up a 397.19580 1/3 HP. Nice condition and almost all parts accounted for.
But it is missing 1 wheel flange. It measures 2 7/8" wide and about 3/16" thick. If anyone has one and willing to sell please PM me.

Should this be in the Wanted section?

Thanks for any help

Kevin

There's a link for "Replacement wheel flanges" on page 3 above.

I wasn't impressed with them, to be honest. Not exactly a close match.

You might try the 'let's see your craftsman block grinders' thread, also.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794

nutjob · Oct 4, 2017

I did find the info you posted about and the flanges are not real close at all. Hoping to find someone with an original one to match my missing one.
Thanks for the info and I will post in the other thread.

Kevin

Flucio · Oct 6, 2017

Gotta take mine apart soon

cheechi · Oct 7, 2017

Got a new addition from 63, a 1/2 HP complete except the right side tool rest. Get some photos and info for you in a bit, didn't take any after photos. This is from the cl ad.

Funny thing is I misread the label in the photo and thought it was a 1/3 so I was pretty pleasantly surprised when I got there.

Hiatt1991 · Oct 8, 2017

Does anyone know how to get the grinding wheels off of a 397.19580 model?

torqueman2002 · Oct 9, 2017

Hiatt1991 said:
Does anyone know how to get the grinding wheels off of a 397.19580 model?

This applies to all the Block grinders I have worked on.
The RH arbor nut is a normal right hand thread - counter-clockwise to remove.

However, the LH arbor nut is a left hand thread - clockwise to remove.

If you have a cordless impact (I use a 3/8"), you can 'zip' them off easily.

Otherwise, use a soft piece of wood to hold the wheel from turning while using a wrench to remove the arbor nut.

You want to take care not to damage the grinding stone.

:thumbup:

gregaz · Oct 15, 2017

torqueman2002 said:
cajun - Thank you!
I received a Lowe's shipment today.

Hillman #884633 Rubber Grommet on left | OEM #5537401 Base Bushing, CM Block on right.

Not an exact size replacement to the Block feet, but a very good one.

Hey guys - wanted to ask two questions.

#1. Is this still the best replacement for rubber feet? I need some.
#2. What is this attachment (photo is attached)? I have the regular support on the other side, but this is something different - and I don't know what it is?

torqueman2002 · Oct 15, 2017

gregaz,
Those Hillman grommets seem to be a good, not perfect, fit. I'm not sure if they are better than these at Graingers.
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Rubber-Grommet-Kit-2MEV3?internalSearchTerm=Rubber%20Grommet%20Kit,For%20Use%20With%20Motor%20Mounting%20Brackets,Package%20Quantity%206&suggestConfigId=8

The attachment might be for a sharpening attachment. I looked for a picture, but alas I don't have any.

gregaz · Oct 16, 2017

torqueman2002 said:
gregaz,
<SNIP>
The attachment might be for a sharpening attachment. I looked for a picture, but alas I don't have any.

Hmm ... I Google image searches and didn’t find it.

dngrmse · Oct 16, 2017

Yes, I can confirm. The aluminum piece is for the sharpening attachment. It is the attachment point and is for adjusting the sharpener front to back.

gregaz · Oct 16, 2017

dngrmse said:
Yes, I can confirm. The aluminum piece is for the sharpening attachment. It is the attachment point and is for adjusting the sharpener front to back.

So I have the attachment, but am missing the entire sharpener bit? What is it called - I want to see if I can buy one on eBay, etc. Thank you!

dngrmse · Oct 16, 2017

Look up "craftsman grinder sharpener (or sharpening)" There are about 4 available on ebay at the moment.

torqueman2002 · Nov 4, 2017

The entertaining, informative, and salty-speaking, YouTuber '

AvE'
has posted a video about Induction Motors. He explains the meaning behind the data plate figures on induction motors, and more.

"Induction Motors EXPLAINED! | Power Factor and Failure Analysis"

It can also be found above, on page 3. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000529&postcount=3

cajunfirehawk · Nov 5, 2017

torqueman2002 said:
The entertaining, informative, and salty-speaking, YouTuber '
"Induction Motors EXPLAINED! | Power Factor and Failure Analysis"

It can also be found above, on page 3. [URL]https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4000529&postcount=3

I like his videos, wonder what he does in the real world?

MrGrnJeans · Nov 5, 2017

I also have a 3/4hp craftsman commercial grinder on a stand, my dad and I bought it at an auction back in the early 90's, it's worked perfectly all these yrs. I paid $60 I think. Also got a huge craftsman vise at the same auction, has a 6-7" jaw opening on it, again a great workhorse in my garage. I might have overpaid at the time for it at $70, but I wanted it!

torqueman2002 · Nov 6, 2017

cajunfirehawk said:
I like his videos, wonder what he does in the real world?

I wonder too. He has an amazing depth of knowledge on a lot of the related tool aspects - materials, design, ....

He calls it like he sees it.

MrGrnJeans said:
I also have a 3/4hp craftsman commercial grinder on a stand, my dad and I bought it at an auction back in the early 90's, it's worked perfectly all these yrs. I paid $60 I think. Also got a huge craftsman vise at the same auction, has a 6-7" jaw opening on it, again a great workhorse in my garage. I might have overpaid at the time for it at $70, but I wanted it!

Nice round top HD Block. :rocker:

I've found the time to buy, is when you see it. More than once, I have kicked myself for missing out on an opportunity.

ktkawaguchi · Nov 7, 2017

$50 1/2 Horse to the east of Marysville. Listed in the Sacramento craigslist.

Just a bit too far and not quite SUCKy enough price for me to make that drive on a worknight.

Kevin.

elguappo · Nov 8, 2017

Dammit I don't have the time...but I might have to make the time.

chrislehr · Nov 26, 2017

torqueman2002 said:
Norton Grinding Do's and Don'ts
http://tinyurl.com/Norton-Grndng-Dos-and-Donts

Anyone got a fresh link for this?

Outlawmws · Nov 26, 2017

http://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/resources/expertise/dos-and-donts-bench-grinding-wheels

torqueman2002 · Nov 26, 2017

Outlawmws said:
http://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/resources/expertise/dos-and-donts-bench-grinding-wheels

Thanks Outlaw.

The link has been updated. --> https://tinyurl.com/Norton-Dos-Donts

EOC_Jason · Nov 26, 2017

Another tip since I know many people have wire wheels on their grinders... Flip them around every once in a while (essentially reversing the rotation). Because of how the wire wears over time they will become dull in that direction, when you flip it around you will be surprised how much better it works at removing rust / paint / whatever.

EOC_Jason · Nov 30, 2017

Anyone have a guess what the HP is for this block? Unfortunately it's a low-res pic. Estate sale coming up and not sure if I want to make the drive out there unless it's at least a 1/2HP or better...

I'm thinking because of the narrow wheels they are 6" and it's a 1/3 HP?

torqueman2002 · Nov 30, 2017

EOC_Jason said:
Anyone have a guess what the HP is for this block? Unfortunately it's a low-res pic. Estate sale coming up and not sure if I want to make the drive out there unless it's at least a 1/2HP or better...

I'm thinking because of the narrow wheels they are 6" and it's a 1/3 HP?

My guess is 1/2 HP, but it could be 1/3.

Outlawmws · Nov 30, 2017

Pretty hard to tell; could go either way..

chrisnazzy · Nov 30, 2017

There is a 1/2 HP block on eBay listed as local pickup only in Chino Hills, CA. Starting bid only $45. May stay pretty cheap if anyone is in So. California.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

cheechi · Nov 30, 2017

I hope its 1/2 but it may be 1/3. GL

EOC_Jason · Dec 1, 2017

I woke up late today, plus I need to go in the completely opposite direction of that sale this morning so I'm not even going to worry about it... Thanks for the input guys!

Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)

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