20ft Car Trailer Build Planning Ideas

[Elvenhome21]

found a realy cool tie down mounts that Im going to use instead of drings. and the slots are wide enough for straps also. But Im going to put these on the decking and the side rails.

 

[Elvenhome21]

Changed my mind the other day on trailer length. Was helping a friend move a car and happened to have a tape measure on me and was doing some measuring with where the car was loaded compared to where I would prefer it to be loaded given the right deck length. So now its going to be a 24' deck length trailer instead of only 20.

The cross beams are just on the drawing for reference. The spacing will change when I get the axles and air bags under it to see where I need the strength for the mounts. But the spacing will be somewhere between 16-20".

 

[Elvenhome21]

I love this thread! I do find it interesting that not 1 piece of iron has been cut and you got near a 100 comments. I build an entire trailer and I'm lucky to see half that

Like I've said, I'm subscribed to the end. Make it happen, Cap'n!

KO

I just seen the view count and its at 35,000 views. I wouldve never thought it would get more then 200

 

[RustnGrease]

found a realy cool tie down mounts that Im going to use instead of drings. and the slots are wide enough for straps also. But Im going to put these on the decking and the side rails.

Details Sir. Where did you get them and how much? I'm rebuilding a 20' trailer myself at some point in the near future. Thanks

 

[Elvenhome21]

Details Sir. Where did you get them and how much? I'm rebuilding a 20' trailer myself at some point in the near future. Thanks

I got the idea from a guy on pirate4x4. they are just cnc plasma cut. I have a 4'x8' cnc plasma table so Ill just make my own. But if your looking for some I can make a stack of them.

 

[Dragon1987]

I wasn't trying to argue over the whole material conversation I was trying to throw my input into the mix it's all. I found the formulas to find modulus strength of a shape and got different numbers but that's neither here nor there really. The main reason for my use of tubing is in my design. I will get a drawing soon for scrutiny lol. I don't have fancy CAD programs though so I will probably just hand draw it on draft paper and scan it into the computer.

 

[Elvenhome21]

I wasn't trying to argue over the whole material conversation I was trying to throw my input into the mix it's all. I found the formulas to find modulus strength of a shape and got different numbers but that's neither here nor there really. The main reason for my use of tubing is in my design. I will get a drawing soon for scrutiny lol. I don't have fancy CAD programs though so I will probably just hand draw it on draft paper and scan it into the computer.

I use draftsight, its free, works decent, and I can actually use the files when I transfer it into my CAM program without having to tweak all the lines like most cad program files.

 

[Elvenhome21]

I put the order in for steel today so friday i should be getting started on this project

 

[xtremek]

I have to wait until the weekend for this to start? I've really enjoyed the design stage so far, so I'm waiting with baited breath for this. Good luck and thanks.

 

[koditten]

There better be lots of pics!

Im in for the whole build.

KO

 

[Elvenhome21]

I **** at taking pictures during a project. Its hard enough with adhd to stay focused on a job for more then 45 minutes without getting distracted much less trying to take pictures. But Ill make sure to get pictures of the important parts, or if you guys want to see something in particular let me know.

 

[brawls43]

Those tie down pieces are so cool! How much big of hole did you cut out in the trailer to allow the hooks to work well? More reasons why I need to get a plasma cnc table!

 

[BLUE72CAMARO]

Yeah I would like to see the hole in the trailer frame prior to welding on the strap plates.

 

[Elvenhome21]

from what the guy that made them originally said, is they are 1 1/4 wide slots. They are just barely big enough to fit a flat style hook in there if needed. I probably wont be putting slots in the frame rail, Id rather just put more of those plates on the deck at wider intervals.

 

[gearhead1]

I like those plates! (Tie down mounts.)

 

[aggie91]

GOT to follow this one thru construction...

 

[JohanM]

Great thread and the actual build has not even started, I am also thinking of building my own trailer, for next years race season. Im glad that there is plenty of people here willing to help/explain anything that there might be a question about.

 

[Dragon1987]

I have to get my computer up and running again and then I will download that software so that I can show ya'll my design. Hey Koditten what size do you use for channel on trailers rated this high? Just curious.

 

[Dragon1987]

Also being that i'm still in the design phase how do you determine axle placement on a trailer like this?

 

[kerrynzl]

Also being that i'm still in the design phase how do you determine axle placement on a trailer like this?

Do you want the USA approach to this, or the rest of the world approach?

In the USA
A generic trailer builder moves the axles as far rearward as possible, so the onus is on the user to buy an F350 dually [or bigger] to handle the loads.
Then they need to buy an equalizer hitch as a patch up fix for too much sway[ understand that the more weight on the same springs lowers the spring frequency ]

In Aussie, NZ, Europe
They generally locate the axle placement 50/50 of the deck. So the deck is balanced.
The extra tongue weight required for the tow vehicle comes from the weight of the tongue itself.
If more weight is required onto the tow vehicle, they use a method known as "moving the car further forward" [it does have it's own wheels]

Outside the USA the tow vehicles are relatively lightweight [compared to the USA ]
It is common to see a racecar hauled to the track behind a Jap pickup or van.

One thing the world can learn from the USA is the use of electric brakes. Surge brakes are too common, and too dangerous on lightweight tow vehicles.

 

[bullnerd]

method known as "moving the car further forward"

HA!

 

[kerrynzl]

method known as "moving the car further forward"

HA!

This may sound like sarcasm or a joke , but I’ve seen many people spend “Moonbeams” [$$$] on some ground loading piece of ****, so they can save up to 15 seconds driving their car on.
Or they are too busy to waste 30 seconds of their life on carrying the ramps around the trailer.

Then they have some tyre wedges welded on the deck, or they have a nudge bar welded around the front [ for psychological security ] which limits the placement of their car.
When a longer wheelbase car or one with more rear weight bias is loaded on the trailer ,they then spend the next 2-5 hours on the road with a poorly balanced trailer [a towing nightmare]

Conventional trailers always win the test of time.
I would rather spend my money on fixed length chains, shackles and tie-down loops on my racecar [ for the rear ] to get my car in the perfect position every time
And ratchet tie-downs on the front to pull it forward.

 

[volleyball]

Do you want the USA approach to this, or the rest of the world approach?

In the USA
A generic trailer builder moves the axles as far rearward as possible, so the onus is on the user to buy an F350 dually [or bigger] to handle the loads.
Then they need to buy an equalizer hitch as a patch up fix for too much sway[ understand that the more weight on the same springs lowers the spring frequency ]

In Aussie, NZ, Europe
They generally locate the axle placement 50/50 of the deck. So the deck is balanced.
The extra tongue weight required for the tow vehicle comes from the weight of the tongue itself.
If more weight is required onto the tow vehicle, they use a method known as "moving the car further forward" [it does have it's own wheels]

Outside the USA the tow vehicles are relatively lightweight [compared to the USA ]
It is common to see a racecar hauled to the track behind a Jap pickup or van.

One thing the world can learn from the USA is the use of electric brakes. Surge brakes are too common, and too dangerous on lightweight tow vehicles.

Part of the difference is that the towed vehicle is a lot lighter and smaller. Thus the trailer can be made lighter and smaller. I did the math and when I only had a small car, a very light weight trailer allowed me to carry an awful lot because not much weight was taken up by the trailer structure.
And we have a country full of geriatrics who pump themselves full of pharmaceuticals every day, whose body and mind are failing, who buy a 32' camper for 8 for the two of their fat butts and for them to be safe, they need a 2 ton pickup and think you need a 3/4 ton to pull a popup less you kill them on the highway.

 

[koditten]

My calculation for axle placement on a two axle trailer.

Front axle is 12" forward of the center point of the trailer frame. Why? Because I can put the tires on the front axle then move the entire trailer by hand. The trailer is mostly balanced at this point of construction.

Like Kerry stated, have some room to move a car forward or backward to get the proper weight distribution.

 

[bullnerd]

Koditten, you mean CL of the "box" alone or tongue included?

 

[jayz66ragtop]

This may sound like sarcasm or a joke , but I’ve seen many people spend “Moonbeams” [$$$] on some ground loading piece of ****, so they can save up to 15 seconds driving their car on.
Or they are too busy to waste 30 seconds of their life on carrying the ramps around the trailer.

I happen to love my tilt bed and it's not because I'm lazy but because when you are loading a dead vehicle by yourself it's no fun running back and forth getting everything lined up just right (cue Benny Hill music). I can get everything close, spool out the line and use the winch remote to pull it up while I steer form the side of the vehicle to make adjustments. Sure it can be done with ramps but my way saves a ton of headaches when doing this by yourself.

 

[koditten]

Koditten, you mean CL of the "box" alone or tongue included?

Center of the trailer. Omit the tongue. The tongue can be different lengths and doesn't weigh enough to make a big difference in the overall balance of the trailer.

 

[koditten]

I happen to love my tilt bed and it's not because I'm lazy but because when you are loading a dead vehicle by yourself it's no fun running back and forth getting everything lined up just right (cue Benny Hill music). I can get everything close, spool out the line and use the winch remote to pull it up while I steer form the side of the vehicle to make adjustments. Sure it can be done with ramps but my way saves a ton of headaches when doing this by yourself.

I'm hip, jays. No will never be without my tilt bed. With that said, I always encourage customers to go with an 18 footer. Being able to move a vehicle just a few inches either way can make a huge difference on how well the loaded trailer hauls down the road.

 

[Elvenhome21]

Finally had time and energy to start the trailer. Im hoping by tomorrow i will have almost all the frame work done. Theres going to be a couple things I wont do until I get wheels, tires and airbags (before I make the dovetail). Im kinda pissed that chevy 6 bolt wheels dont fit the hubs I bought. The center is almost .250 smaller which defeats the purpose of going with 6 bolt. No Im wishing Id have just gone 8 lug and have plentiful and cheap wheels to use.

The cross members dont match the drawing but on average they are 21" apart. I needed certain cross members to be in a specific spot so they range between 20-24" depending on where I needed them.

 

[Elvenhome21]

This may sound like sarcasm or a joke , but I’ve seen many people spend “Moonbeams” [$$$] on some ground loading piece of ****, so they can save up to 15 seconds driving their car on.
Or they are too busy to waste 30 seconds of their life on carrying the ramps around the trailer.

Then they have some tyre wedges welded on the deck, or they have a nudge bar welded around the front [ for psychological security ] which limits the placement of their car.
When a longer wheelbase car or one with more rear weight bias is loaded on the trailer ,they then spend the next 2-5 hours on the road with a poorly balanced trailer [a towing nightmare]

Conventional trailers always win the test of time.
I would rather spend my money on fixed length chains, shackles and tie-down loops on my racecar [ for the rear ] to get my car in the perfect position every time
And ratchet tie-downs on the front to pull it forward.

I take it that you dont haul broke down cars or crashed cars ever judging by your response. The whole point of an open trailer vs enclosed is that if you wad up a car at the track you at least have a chance to get it home. And ramps **** monkey balls when a wheel dont turn or your dragging that side of the car up a ramp. It has nothing to do with laziness. Look how much time you waste when a car roll off a ramp or you dont slip enough clutch and it sends the ramp flying. IT *****.

As for tire wedges they are nice if they are short enough to drive over but tall enough to stop a free rolling car. (not all tracks and driveways are level here)

 

[bullnerd]

Center of the trailer. Omit the tongue. The tongue can be different lengths and doesn't weigh enough to make a big difference in the overall balance of the trailer.

Thanks, but now I have another stupid question. How do you know when the car(weight)is in the best location on the trailer?

 

[Elvenhome21]

Thanks, but now I have another stupid question. How do you know when the car(weight)is in the best location on the trailer?

i bounce up and down on the tail of the trailer and on the tongue. Its pretty easy to judge once youve done it a couple times. If you bounce on the tail and the ball rises your in trouble. The flip side is if you bounce on the tongue and it dont wiggle the trucks suspension its pretty tongue heavy.

 

[kerrynzl]

I take it that you dont haul broke down cars or crashed cars ever judging by your response. The whole point of an open trailer vs enclosed is that if you wad up a car at the track you at least have a chance to get it home. And ramps **** monkey balls when a wheel dont turn or your dragging that side of the car up a ramp. It has nothing to do with laziness. Look how much time you waste when a car roll off a ramp or you dont slip enough clutch and it sends the ramp flying. IT *****.

As for tire wedges they are nice if they are short enough to drive over but tall enough to stop a free rolling car. (not all tracks and driveways are level here)

Dragging a dead car onto a trailer is a part of racing, I know all about
My trailer of choice is a tilt-deck.
But I prefer gravity tilt because it is easier to find the point of balance ,then I move the payload forward from that position to the best towing position
It doesn't matter what car is on it, just find the point of balance for that particular car.

If the ramps are of a simple design [eg: a piece of wood with a bit of angle steel on the end ] They will always slip-off when loading a racecar with an aggressive clutch.
The tyre wedges I'm referring to, are the pieces of 6" angle welded to the deck.
If tyre wedges are welded on, it is best to move them forward about 4" from ideal position and lay a piece of 2x 4 in front of them. [once the car is on, remove the 2 x4's and winch the car into position.
I rely on tie-downs or chains to position the car not a wedge [I've witnessed this before]

The ramps on my trailer slide rearwards out of a drawer, then they can slide sideways for different width vehicles.
They cannot slip off the trailer while being loaded , or be removed from the trailer and lost.

 

[Elvenhome21]

This is what I got done in the last 2 days. for the most part the frame is done. I got to finish the tongue, front cross member, and add the dove tail. Then flip over and finish welding the tops of all the channels.

The frame alternates between 3" and 4" channel. I would have used more 3" channel if I had more of them, I got a pile of 4" but only like 6 sticks of 3"

 

[koditten]

Outstanding!

Looking forward to seeing how the tongue is going to be beefed up. I don't think I understood what you were describing earlier.

Keep us in the loop.

Kirk

 

[JohanM]

quick question, sorry in advance if this is the wrong place to ask.

I am planning to build my own trailer. Im not 100% sure if I want to build a tilt or regular style with ramps, pretty much I'm trying to understand a little more about the tilt trailer. I have rented the sunbelt 18' tandem axle tilt trailer and I'm spoiled by it haha, looked into buying one of their older ones but i think that these sunbelt trailer are built for heavier duty cargo hauling. at total MAX I'm looking to be hauling 3k pounds the car it self that I'm planing on towing it weights in at 2,800lbs so the sunbelt trailer will be overkill.

I want to build a trailer as low as possible
keep it lightweight
i want to do the 4" drop axles 3500lbs each with electric brakes
wooden deck
aluminum fenders for weight

the only thing I'm tying to figure out is what size material would i need to be able to haul a 2800lb car.
thats all i can think of right now, any input is appreciate it!

 

[kerrynzl]

Thanks, but now I have another stupid question. How do you know when the car(weight)is in the best location on the trailer?

That is not a stupid question! It is probably the most relevant question on any trailer forum.

That being said, a good handling trailer is more preferable than an easy loading trailer. [Both is better]

 

[Elvenhome21]

quick question, sorry in advance if this is the wrong place to ask.

I am planning to build my own trailer. Im not 100% sure if I want to build a tilt or regular style with ramps, pretty much I'm trying to understand a little more about the tilt trailer. I have rented the sunbelt 18' tandem axle tilt trailer and I'm spoiled by it haha, looked into buying one of their older ones but i think that these sunbelt trailer are built for heavier duty cargo hauling. at total MAX I'm looking to be hauling 3k pounds the car it self that I'm planing on towing it weights in at 2,800lbs so the sunbelt trailer will be overkill.

I want to build a trailer as low as possible
keep it lightweight
i want to do the 4" drop axles 3500lbs each with electric brakes
wooden deck
aluminum fenders for weight

the only thing I'm tying to figure out is what size material would i need to be able to haul a 2800lb car.
thats all i can think of right now, any input is appreciate it!

2x4x.125 rect tubing frame or 4" channel. Use the same for cross members spaced 36" apart. That's what my superlite trailer is and I've hauled some heavy vehicles (4000+ lbs) on it with rigid suspension and never had any flex issues.

Aluminum fenders vs steel prob won't save you any noticeable weight. Plastic fenders on the other hand are very light.

 

[Elvenhome21]

Outstanding!

Looking forward to seeing how the tongue is going to be beefed up. I don't think I understood what you were describing earlier.

Keep us in the loop.

Kirk

There will be a 3 piece front cross member that connects to the tongue. Then there will be 2 parallel frame rails under the main frame that tie into the tongue and first 2 cross members spaced 36" apart from each other. If you look at the latest print I posted you'll see them and the spot for the spare tire between them

 

[jimgood]

That is not a stupid question! It is probably the most relevant question on any trailer forum.

That being said, a good handling trailer is more preferable than an easy loading trailer. [Both is better]

So, the answer is...?