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20ft Car Trailer Build Planning Ideas

jayz66ragtop

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That is not a stupid question! It is probably the most relevant question on any trailer forum.

That being said, a good handling trailer is more preferable than an easy loading trailer. [Both is better]

So, the answer is...? :headscrat

The answer is it depends... :bounce:

This is what I do whenever I'm putting a vehicle on my trailer for the first time if I can:

1. Hitch up the trailer and park on a level spot

2. Since I have a 22' tilt bed, most vehicles will fit on no problem so I put the vehicle on in about the middle of the deck and tilt the bed back up.

3. Most vehicles positioned in the middle of the deck make the trailer about neutral balance meaning there isn't much weight on the tongue. This is NOT a good thing.

4. I leave the vehicle on the trailer in neutral (if on level ground it shouldn't roll in either direction) and adjust forward or back from there.

5. On most vehicles I roll them forward while standing right by the fender so my weight doesn't influence the balance. I watch the tongue compared to the ground and when I see the tongue drop the back of the vehicle an inch or so I know I'm in the ball park.

6. I strap it down and go for a short drive.

7. Sometimes I have to move the vehicle forward or backward a little but usually no more than a couple of inches and most of the time it's forward to put a little more weight on the tongue.

I'm sure there are thousands of ways to do it. A more scientific way of doing it with a scale under the tongue to get 12% of the trailer weight on the tongue but my method has worked for me for 20+ years and ~60K miles of towing with no issues but what do I know?

Keep in mind I have a HEAVY tilt bed (~2700 lbs empty) with 7000# axles so it isn't affected by wind or road irregularities like some of the lighter weight trailers. It also has 225 X 7.5" trailer tires on it which contributes a lot to how well it tracks down the road.
 
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koditten

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Apr 10, 2008
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Midland, Michigan
My scientific methode?

I watch the tow vehicle, I want to see the truck squat 1" give or take. Of course take into effect how much the truck is already squatting with the empty trailer hooked up first.

I never subscribbed to the 10% of total weight on the hitch. I just want to know that there is enough weight on the hitch.

It only takes moving the vehilce forward or rearward a few inches eaither way to find the sweet spot.
 
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Elvenhome21

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Sheboygan WI
If in doubt you don't have enough tongue weight just load it 6-12" further forward. I'd rather run tongue heavy any day then have that one time where you were to tail heavy makes it fishtail. Just like going down a mountain. You can go down to slow a million times and be perfectly safe. Vs the one time you go down to fast and smoke the brakes and get out of control.
 
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Elvenhome21

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Im kinda in a pickle right now. Now im starting to wish I would have stuck with 8 bolt hubs. Finding 6 lug trailer wheels in 16" are a pain and the tire selection in 15" for the weight rating I want is slim pickings. Its next to impossible to find trustworthy tire in 15" thats rated above 2500lbs and not pay an arm and a leg for. VS 16" i can easily find e rated tires of a brand name I can trust for decent price, but cant find decent wheels.
 

Mr.N

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Mpls, MN
Im kinda in a pickle right now. Now im starting to wish I would have stuck with 8 bolt hubs. Finding 6 lug trailer wheels in 16" are a pain and the tire selection in 15" for the weight rating I want is slim pickings. Its next to impossible to find trustworthy tire in 15" thats rated above 2500lbs and not pay an arm and a leg for. VS 16" i can easily find e rated tires of a brand name I can trust for decent price, but cant find decent wheels.
Rims are a one time purchase, tires on the other hand....

There are companies that make custom sizes, I'd look into them.
I've bought wheel centers and welded them into a wheel for a custom rim.
 

kf4zht

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Calhoun, GA
Im kinda in a pickle right now. Now im starting to wish I would have stuck with 8 bolt hubs. Finding 6 lug trailer wheels in 16" are a pain and the tire selection in 15" for the weight rating I want is slim pickings. Its next to impossible to find trustworthy tire in 15" thats rated above 2500lbs and not pay an arm and a leg for. VS 16" i can easily find e rated tires of a brand name I can trust for decent price, but cant find decent wheels.

I am running into the same issue. Found that chevy wheels in 16s are harder to find and the center hole is usually too small. I have some luck with Toyota truck wheels, the center hole is correct.

I am considering swapping hubs to 8 lug. The brakes already need to be converted from hydro to electric, if the drums are not compatible I will be swapping.
 
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Elvenhome21

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These are the calculated weights right now It will probably be another 150 lbs of steel added. Then the axles/tires and suspension. Im not sure if Im still going to go with diamond plate or not being that its going to add another 1000lbs to the trailer.

27 3" 4.1 110lbs
33.75 4" 5.4 182 lbs
57.5 5" 6.7 386lbs

680 lbs frame

diamond plate 6.16lbs foot
951 lbs diamond plate
 

Ign

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Butte Peak ND
Im kinda in a pickle right now. Now im starting to wish I would have stuck with 8 bolt hubs. Finding 6 lug trailer wheels in 16" are a pain and the tire selection in 15" for the weight rating I want is slim pickings. Its next to impossible to find trustworthy tire in 15" thats rated above 2500lbs and not pay an arm and a leg for. VS 16" i can easily find e rated tires of a brand name I can trust for decent price, but cant find decent wheels.

I've been saying this for a long time. 15" ***** and the three potential bolt circles drives me crazy. At least w 6 lug you know it's 5.5". My PJ is 6 lug, never had to shop for more wheels but I have some steelies here I think would work, unknown origin. At least I've got 16" so tires are easy in load range E
 
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Elvenhome21

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Finally got some plate from a former employer. Unfortunately its way thicker than I wanted and my plasma cutter is technically maxed out at 1" with a machine torch. But its what I had available. So this is the results of trying to cut 1.25" plate.

Anything over 1/2" has to be an edge start so thats why the right hole in the middle picture looks so goofy, the pilot hole i drilled was to small and filled up with slag before it started moving. And I had to try and gouge out enough material to get it to re-pierce thru.

The thickness around the holes isnt as thick as I wanted but when I drew it up I thought I gave it plenty of extra material. I guess not. The next 3 Ill make slightly thicker.
 

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kerrynzl

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Im not for sure, but toyota tacoma 6 lug wheels might work.

All Jap 6 lug wheels have the same PCD 6 x 139.5 [ 6 x 5.5" ][the same as a Colorado and Silverado ]

You can get them from 14" to 17" OEM

4 x 4 wheels have a larger centre hole to allow for Free wheeling hubs.
Mitsubishi make a nice tough alloy wheel in 16" for the Pajero [Montero]
[16 x 8 with zero offset ]

Over here Alloy 4x4 wheels are only worth scrap value because all the off road boys want steel spoke wheels.
 
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Elvenhome21

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2.5 painfully slow hours later all 4 are cut.... kinda. I got to go back with a hand torch and cut thru the dross on the other side and finish the last 1/4" of the arcs. For some reason the Gcode had a glitch in it on the outside of the 3rd part and started to cut into the part instead of following the arc. But a little touchup with the welder should fix that. Next time I make a drop axle Im would do it way different. Not worth wasting 4 hours of dicking around again.
 

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Elvenhome21

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The part that ***** is im really stretching the 102" width now. If I would have used chevy wheels like Id originally planned Id be well under. But now with the zero offset wheels it really sticks them out there. Now its just a game of how much clearance do I need between the frame rail and the drop arm.
 
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Elvenhome21

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Havent been able to make a ton of progress lately due to massive overtime at work but heres a small update to the axles.

Its not the final placement but just trying to get measurements and angles right for clearance and ride height.

And as far as overall width its right at 102" right to the sidwalls, so just barely made it.
 

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kerrynzl

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Havent been able to make a ton of progress lately due to massive overtime at work but heres a small update to the axles.

Its not the final placement but just trying to get measurements and angles right for clearance and ride height.

And as far as overall width its right at 102" right to the sidwalls, so just barely made it.

I hope you are going to 4 link the rear end [and not 2-link it ,as mocked up in this picture ]

You need some form of compliance to allow for "body-roll" or only 1 wheel going over a bump.
If you want to stay with a 2-link system , do it triangulated "truck-arm" style where the links meet near the centre, and they need to be made from "C" or "I" beam to allow for torsional twist.

Also when only 1 wheel goes over a bump, that side of the axle moves up on an "ARC" so it will need more frame to axle clearance [previous post]
 
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Elvenhome21

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Just a small update. Both axles are done except for adding the brakes and fenders, tongue is pretty much finished.
A lot of trial and error on the suspension right now. Still trying to figure out a simpler way on how to make the axles adjustable for alignment. Im thinking I might do slotted holes for the ubolts on one side, however Ive never seen anyone really do anything other than an eccentric on the pivot bolt.

Next project is the front box and finishing the dove tail. Then I get to put on all the floor plate.


Things I would do different next time. Using all new materials.
3 x 1 1/2" tube crossmembers
4" drop surplus axles with 8 lug
stacked frame rails over the axle and notch out the bottom frame rail like maxey does. A lot easier to get lower tail height when dropped although you sacrifice deck width.
Flux core with outershield wire. (its been so windy lately ive had to redo a few welds because the shielding gas blew away)
 

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mark18mwm

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northern WI.
Still trying to figure out a simpler way on how to make the axles adjustable for alignment. Im thinking I might do slotted holes for the ubolts on one side, however Ive never seen anyone really do anything other than an eccentric on the pivot bolt.


Would something like this help? It mounts between your axle and trailing arm ( made for leaf springs) in the center bolt hole. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-Adjustable-Lowering-Block,23728.html
 
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Elvenhome21

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Still trying to figure out a simpler way on how to make the axles adjustable for alignment. Im thinking I might do slotted holes for the ubolts on one side, however Ive never seen anyone really do anything other than an eccentric on the pivot bolt.


Would something like this help? It mounts between your axle and trailing arm ( made for leaf springs) in the center bolt hole. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-Adjustable-Lowering-Block,23728.html


No, my arms are already pretty close to the ground the way it is, and those wouldnt work unless the mounting holes had slots.
 

kerrynzl

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Very simple to do!

Make an "A" frame to support the axles [ similar to old V8 Fords , except going forward on the Front axle and Rearward on the Rear axle]

The centre of the "A" needs a rubber Rod End that can be shimmed L or R with washers on a centre bolt/hanger.

At the axle end have a long adjustable panhard bars.

Adjusting the panhard and the Rod End the same direction will move the axle L or R.
Adjusting the panhard and the Rod End in opposite directions will steer the axle [align]
Adjusting the Rod End in or out will alter the wheelbase.

The A frame will allow one wheel to go over curbs without twisting the axle or most likely breaking the welds

If you've ever reversed a trailer around a corner and up a curb crossing [or diagonally up a curb crossing] you will observe the massive change in levels and angles of all the wheels
 

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Jake2670

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Mar 28, 2015
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Northwest AR
NOOOOOO been reading all this time, to end here, come on, can't leave us hanging. New here, was looking for DIY Maxey, or any low angle loader, thanks guys, for all the insight.

Jake
 
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Elvenhome21

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Just ran out of time last year before it got bitter cold. Its finally starting to get a little warmer now. Ill probably start back working on it in the next 2 weeks.
 

bigmikes50chevy

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Feb 12, 2011
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I know this is a really old thread, but, did you finish? building a trailer myself and this is an interesting read.

BigMike
 
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