Yes....I will sketch out a floor plan and post it soon. Would probably be good to have a sketch of one at some point anyway
So far --- it's been a "vision"
72'x60'x16' "Shouse"
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Yes....I will sketch out a floor plan and post it soon. Would probably be good to have a sketch of one at some point anyway
So far --- it's been a "vision"
jbmatth
Well-known member
Very cool and should last a very long time. Other that some minor oversights you've mentioned is there anything else you would have done different?
JB
JB
I would have put pex in the entire floor....both living and the shop. Might not have used it right away, but then it would be there when ready.
Would have also micromanaged the installation of the seal strips by the people putting up the building. I'm not sure that it was done to perfection like I would have hoped.
Build the shop bigger as well.....???? Sure does fill up fast.
Time to put some light on things.... Really pleased with the porch lighting and kitchen lighting.
All LED's. All zoned and dimmable. Under cabinet lighting is the strip variety that you simply cut to length, make the transformer connection, and stick.
All LED's. All zoned and dimmable. Under cabinet lighting is the strip variety that you simply cut to length, make the transformer connection, and stick.
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AnthonyJ124
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Looks great! What fixture did you use under the porch?
Mike.ASC
Well-known member
Very nice place your building.
nathank
Well-known member
Awesome build. Subscribed.
Yes....I will sketch out a floor plan and post it soon. Would probably be good to have a sketch of one at some point anyway
So far --- it's been a "vision"
Here is a sketch of the floor plan....
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Looking at shop fan options right now. Shop lights starting to go up.
Would like to hang one big central fan on the ceiling, instead of multiple smaller units. Big commercial fans are expensive.....
Anybody have any good options??
Would like to hang one big central fan on the ceiling, instead of multiple smaller units. Big commercial fans are expensive.....
Anybody have any good options??
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How did you do your batt insulation installation in the open shop area? Did you put some framing in there every 24" or so? ... or just **** the batts up to each other without extra framing, vapor barrier and then tin over top?
I'm about to start insulating my shed, so I'm curious. I have a lot of area to cover 60x68x16.
I'm about to start insulating my shed, so I'm curious. I have a lot of area to cover 60x68x16.
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Jeff Scott
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I'm looking at these for my shop when built. They move 46,000 cfm! And they are only $125 a piece:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/fans/ceiling-beam/industrial-ceiling-fan-white-60
madoc1
Well-known member
really nice place. will be watching for updates.
jim
jim
Great question....I kicked around the insulation question for a very long time. I was considering spray foam (too expensive), blowing in like you would do in the ceiling after I had the walls up (got talked out of that by insulation people for some reason), framing it out completely on 16" centers and insulating like you would a house....etc, etc,...
I had a buddy frame out his building on 16" centers and we insulated it....and I knew there had to be a better way....I hated the idea of having to frame out a pole structure.....takes the whole idea of post frame construction and sets it back 50 years.
So I started looking at ways that I could "hang" insulation and then grit the interior walls, exactly like they do the exterior walls....
I'm on 9' centers....and wanted to buy 9' wide insulation. Guess what?? Nobody sells it....except Morton. And they aren't too excited to sell it to someone who didn't put up a Morton building....and it's expensive.
Local insulation places could get me 4' or 5' wide rolls.....again...very damn expensive!!!
So I walked into Menards when insulation was on sale, and looked for the widest roll I could get, and started buying.
Was worried about hanging it and having the weight of 16' lengths pulling it down. Fabbed up a system of hanging a 2x4 at the top, and at 8' off the ground. Then ripped 1/4 plywood, and screwed the plywood to the 2x4's to "pinch" the insulation. Gave me good "bite" to hold the insulation.
After that...simply gritted the walls every 2 ft from floor to ceiling. Easy, cheap, and I wouldn't do it any other way. Probably did it in a 1/4 of the time that we did my friends building.
Only fear is hanging heavy stuff on the grits. Going to have to be strategic on that, and shoot for the 9' centers when hanging the real heavy stuff.
I did, however, go with 3/4 OSB to provide more support to the walls for hanging purposes.
After having them up....I have no more fears. Love it.
We shall see once some items start getting hung!
Thanks Jeff! Funny how things work....those are the exact same fans I was looking at on the Menards website! Great bang for the buck it appears.
Just a word of caution....Menards has the fan listed for $185, free ship to home option. The site you linked has them for $125....plus $20 shipping to my door.
Seemed like a no-brainer right?? I thought so too..... Until I messaged the company about controllers!! No controller included.... Need to buy that for $40 as an add-on.
So it's a wash $185 either place.
Just an FYI.
Jeff Scott
Well-known member
Ah, I wondered what the catch was with the price. Thanks.
So you went with 3/4" OSB on the bottom 8 ft? You did your walls just as I had envisioned doing mine when I get built. I was going to use 5/8" OSB, but 3/4" might be a better bet. Your shop looks good man.
Jeff
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I just spotted this thread today. I really like what you've done here so far, and your cement "tiled" floor ended up looking pretty schweet!
I will certainly be checking back for updates, thanks for allowing us to follow your build.
BTW, I'm digging the "pallet sidewalk" you have! Much better than muddy feet constantly, I'm sure.
I will certainly be checking back for updates, thanks for allowing us to follow your build.
BTW, I'm digging the "pallet sidewalk" you have!
Much better than muddy feet constantly, I'm sure.Yes....3/4" OSB on the walls. Almost second guessed myself at the store when looking at the 5/8 vs 3/4. Tried to convince myself that there wasn't "that much of difference" and wasn't worth the extra money. In the end....glad I did. Think it was about $50 more to go with the 3/4". It all adds up, but it is peanuts in the grand scheme of things, and isn't worth the trouble if I didn't like the 5/8.
You could get totally crazy and go 1"!!! I've stared at it and wondered at times if that wouldn't have been the best....LOL.
I just spotted this thread today. I really like what you've done here so far, and your cement "tiled" floor ended up looking pretty schweet!
I will certainly be checking back for updates, thanks for allowing us to follow your build.
BTW, I'm digging the "pallet sidewalk" you have!
Glad you like the "concrete tile". I have to take the time to grout it soon. Been putting that task off as long as I can.
Will ultimately grout it all and then apply one final coat of urethane sealer. I'm thinking it will be a great finished look. Maybe not necessarily a great finished look in suburban quarter of a million dollar home, but damn near perfect for a "shouse"
As for the sidewalk....pallets are a man's best friend!! Works great....and cheaper than concrete. Maybe they'll post this concept on Pinterest?!?!?! I hear it's full of pallet creations...
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Thanks for the response. I'm not sure I followed this description. Do you have a picture or sketch of how you did this? I'm thinking the 2x4 sandwich the insulation, but I guess I'm not sure what you are doing with the 1/4 plywood? ... or maybe I got it all wrong?
Also, second question. What did you use for girts then? .. just 1x3 or 1x4's ... I was thinking 1x3's. ... and then anywhere that I wanted to hang stuff I'd just put up plywood or one of those slat wall hanging systems, rather than OSB everywhere. However, your implementation does look very nice, and I like the change in color and texture it gives you.
My walls will 16' tall if that maters for girt specs?
Sorry! My explanation was not the best.
I have attached a picture to this reply that might give you a better idea.
We used a 2x4 at the top (or close to) and roughly half way up the wall. We cut the 2x4 to fit in between the 9' centers. Keep in mind that the 9' centers are 2x6's, so we had room to lay the 2x4 in flat, flush with the exterior edge of the 2x6 and toe nail it in.
We then notched the insulated roughly where it would hit the 2x4 and laid it in the wall cavity. Once in position, we screwed the plywood strip to the 2x4, pinching the insulation in place. Gave us a ton of surface area of bite on the insulation....with the goal of keeping it in place.
The picture shows the finished work. The 2x4 is hidden behind the insulation, and the plywood is already attached.
We used 2x4's and 2x6's for the interior grits. Reasoning for that was stability of the walls, especially for hanging future items.
We used 2x6's at the bottom of the wall, as well as at 8'. No real reason for them at the bottom, but the reason for using them at 8' was because that's where the OSB meets the steel, and it gave us an extra 2" of leeway to make our connections.
We went every 2' from the bottom to the top with grits. Again, could have got by with less.....but lumber is relatively cheap, and this always multiple levels to hang stuff....
Hope this helps....let me know if you want further info...
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Thanks for the response. I get what you did. I was seeing the 1/4 plywood strips as the 2x4's in the picture. So the 2x4's are behind the insulation and the 1/4 strips are just screwed to those through the 1/4 ply, through the insulation and it gives it a "little" pinch, just enough pinch to hold it in place.
I've seen on another thread where someone did 2x6 bookshelf girts (2x6 laying flat like a bookshelf between the 9' oc posts, every 2' all the way up, then laid the insulation horizontally on each shelf girt.
I think I'll be using a combination of both your ideas. Thanks for sharing!!!
I've seen on another thread where someone did 2x6 bookshelf girts (2x6 laying flat like a bookshelf between the 9' oc posts, every 2' all the way up, then laid the insulation horizontally on each shelf girt.
I think I'll be using a combination of both your ideas. Thanks for sharing!!!
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yep, it looks like it's gonna be daylight in there before long!
Are those LED lights you're putting up?
Daylight it is!!!!
Yes --- LED's from Costco. I'm very happy with them, and my electrician who does a ton of shop lighting, is very impressed as well. Said it's his outcome yet for shop light.
Only have the tall portion of the shop lit currently. And did it on two separate banks of lights...with the thinking that one bank can be turned off when the projector is in use, and the other bank can stay on for lighting in the background. Thinking football parties, NASCAR, etc...
Under the loft still needs the ceiling put up before we can hang lights.
Yes --- LED's from Costco. I'm very happy with them, and my electrician who does a ton of shop lighting, is very impressed as well. Said it's his outcome yet for shop light.
Only have the tall portion of the shop lit currently. And did it on two separate banks of lights...with the thinking that one bank can be turned off when the projector is in use, and the other bank can stay on for lighting in the background. Thinking football parties, NASCAR, etc...
Under the loft still needs the ceiling put up before we can hang lights.
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jbmatth
Well-known member
That is very bright, well done sir!
JB
JB
Started in on tiling the master shower and Jacuzzi.
I'm a rookie....so this might not have been the "best" way --- but since I wanted a level line of full tile extending from the tub into the shower....I could think of no other way???
In the end, it worked out.
I'm a rookie....so this might not have been the "best" way --- but since I wanted a level line of full tile extending from the tub into the shower....I could think of no other way???
In the end, it worked out.
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Jo Diesel
Well-known member
You need to tile the floor before setting the bottom row of wall tile. Your right, thats not the best way but if it worked for you, thats all that matters. Looks good so far.
Jo - that's exactly what I did next. I knew I needed to get the floor tile laid in before the wall tile, but I wasn't sure how to get my perfect line of tile around the entire space if I didn't start with the middle row. Rookie mistakes
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For those of you bored with house pics....back to the "garage".
Finished soffiting off all the water lines, plumbing pipes, and HVAC under the loft and above the parking stalls. Went 5/8" OSB on all the soffit parts and then metal for the ceiling. Trying to stay as consistent as possible throughout the building.
Finished soffiting off all the water lines, plumbing pipes, and HVAC under the loft and above the parking stalls. Went 5/8" OSB on all the soffit parts and then metal for the ceiling. Trying to stay as consistent as possible throughout the building.
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jbmatth
Well-known member
That will be nice to have a shower that size when you get it done though.
JB
JB
Drewstang
Well-known member
I like that flooring, are those the vinyl planks? Tile looks good, it'll be worth all the hard work in the end.
I love the irony of this statement after all the pictures and stories of torrential rainfall...
Yes -- those are the "luxury vinyl planks". Mannington brand.
Very happy with installation process. Hoping that they perform as well for the rest of their lifespan.